Alex Dark

the pads are fine...if you water bleed them however, they have what i like to refer to as the colindar effect...they just dont hold bleeds at all...the seals in the lever are tripe, just get an 04 magura...

No buying or selling in new members chat though! let me get this straight.... a 2002 levelboss in a swap for an adamant a1?! err....i think there might have to be some cash as well there matey! Was there even a levelboss made in 02?

Basically...havent ridden in over a week now...and im well and truly bored! So, hows about a plymouth ride this saturday? oh,and if anyones got any 4 bolt forks/ vee stock forks they'd lend me id be most appreciative...(stuck with some knifens that weigh a tonne at the moment)

ah right...

yep, it'll work on anything anodised....i didnt realise there was already a wiki for this....what a waste of time!

Stocks the way forwards...thankfully adams seen the light

oh man Wish id been there now......

wiki-ing would be nice! Yep,oven cleaner does contain dilute caustic soda making is safer to handle and less aggressive. Oops, forgot to put a safety warning in Edit: done now....

really good video...enjoyedit...especially the rockwalk up those steps...im going to have to steal that move

Either get yourself validated and buy a bike off here....or trawl through ebay until you find something cheap

red and white id say.... The upgrades id make in order of importance are: Rear pads Rear hub Chain Frame They are quite nice looking and riding bikes in my opinion.. You could pick up something like a pitbull frame for as little as £50 posted

If you are a smooth rider,i cant really see a problem with this frame...hwoever,magnesium is flexy and is never really as strong as u6 aluminium

Nice to see a lot more people getting back into the sport....nice bike by the way!

Street without a doubt....add a poll to this topic, the results might be interesting

Basically i accquired some green cranks, and came to the conclusion that putting these on my bike with red parts would make it resemble a christmas themed steed....a look i didnt really want. So, i decided to do some research on how to strip the anodising off them. Up to 6 applications have to be used, depending on the thickness and quality of the anodising I pored over several sites to try to ascertain the best method for removal...and ended up on several r/c car forums, they all suggested the use of sodium hydroxide ( oven / drain cleaner ). Sodium hydroxide effectiveloy dissolves the aluminium oxide layer (which is what anodising is composed of) on the surface of the alloy. I went into my local shop and found some Mr. Muscle oven cleaner for the princely sum of £1.89.....sorted.... I started off assembling all the bits and pieces i needed: Rubber gloves Toothbrush Newspaper Oven cleaner Wire wool Autosol Rag(s) Lay the item to be stripped on the newspaper. Then spray a light film of mr. musle all over the surface ( make sure to do thisd in a well ventilated area as i found out later on ). You'll have someting that looks a bit like this: Leave the item for around 5 mins, and you'll have something like this: The anodising will have begun to have been removed, leaving a green mess that needs to be brushed off with the toothbrush. Repeat the application, and agitation with the toothbrush intil all the colouring has gone, and there is a dirty black / grey layer over all the raw aluminium. The item now has to be washed to prevent any further corrosion. Once the item is dry, lay it out on some more newspaper and set to it with some fairly coarse wire wool to remove the tarnisheed effect and the last of the anodising. Once most of it has been removed, use some finer wire wool, then buff to a shine with autosol metal polish with a clean fluffy rag. REMEMBER: Use rubber gloves as caustic soda is an irritant and can cause skin damage. If it comes into contact with skin, wash with copious amounts of water. If ingested seek medical advice. Also, use in a well-ventilated area as the fumes can be a bit savage....i started to feel light headed

yep, the planet-x will make a sweet old school trials bike...very nice little frames

i use a rolson grinder....as said before the grinder doesnt really matter, but the discs do... i use a steel cutting one

yep, a normal king is 135mm spacing.....so wont fit, a bmx one will be just the job

the woodstock frame weighs around 1.6kgs.... the zip-tied mount on the sarry looks positively lethal!

the yabaa bikes seem brilliant for the money....well impressed with the spec and geo, id say go for one

24/7 holroyd mod-stock.... Does this look right? Wheel geometry Hub diameters : Left = 45, Right = 45 Hub offsets : Left = 27, Right = 27 Rim diameter : 534 that'll give me 259.18 long spokes on drive and non-drive

Building a wheel for a friend ( echo rim (26") onto t-rpo hub...does anyone know the spoke sizes for it, or just the diameter of a t-pro hub ...... Going to be using this spoke calculator: http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/spokecalc/ i know the erd of the echo rim (543mm), and i know i dont want it dished to either side ( so both sides will be uniform length spokes, therefore making the build easier ) Can anybody help?

This may ewll be a stupid question as you're posting ona trials forum.....but is there going to be any trials events there? beyond the braun team being there.....

those types of discs are really not a good idea...you really want a peoper metal cutting disc, quite thin one