Alex Dark

i guess you mean rear hub spacing...not bb shell spacing or brake moint spacing.... Im near definite its a standard stock, so 135mm Bear in mind about 3 on this forum have cracked at the "seatstay"

erm....fibrax blacks?

thats cool, if you need any help or get stuck, drop me a pm dude

i reckon you'd be fine...it looks to be the same profile as a bmf or dx-32

Mr Mayer also complained that he is receiving hate mail and telephone threats because of his decision to defend Mr Fritzl. He said: “I am getting letters saying I should be locked up together with Fritzl. But I am not representing a monster; I am representing a human being. As I first saw him, the Latin term pater familias came to mind. It was used to describe the absolute head of the family – caring, but strict. Nowadays people would call that a patriarch.” A patriarch!? next they'll be calling him a patron saint! http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/worl...icle3871049.ece

ive had this problem before.....best thing you can do is get the piston out, sounds like a bit of grit was stopping the piston coming up all the way when you bled it when you over bled it the piston would have hit the obstruction and dragged it down, causing excess friction and stopping the piston coming back up.... Clamp the slaves ( with pads ) in a vice or with mole grips...., now remove lever blade and tpa.....then attach a syringe and bleed kit and force water in....this should force the master piston out the top of the lever body, you can then clean both and stretch the spring slightly

its not much weight to be fair...i dont think its worth changine to be honest....however if you do, i way consider a swapsie with you for various bits

oh....a 74kingz for a mod just use a half link ...

just strip the whole thing down, clean it, replace the rubbish/broken parts....and get some decent pads ( eg cousts / koolstops ) and/or some tar

All that would do is increase this bottom bracket height and slacken the head angle...same effect as running a "mock" .. a mod with stock forks and front wheel Why would decreasing the length of one crank = more power?! Surely the answer is to have longer cranks to increase leverage on both sides....... i ran 175 / 170 for ages and couldn't even tell the difference

use some tar and koolstop pads / crms Or Get a grind and use some koxx browns

why even bother posting? Anyway.... what i did was : 31.8-25.4= 6.4mm 6.4mm /2= ~3.2mm Got some 3mm thick alloy, bent it around bar carefully , cut to length then clamped her up...works a treat

just use some echo cnc'd cranks ( £65 ) with a tensile screw on bashring from me ( £15 )

http://www.starbike.com/php/product_info.p...en&pid=6714 Here it is for sale... hans rey rides with a similar one ( or at least used to when he was riding a red gt in an interview with mbuk )

yeh, mats is damn solid...you cant feel the rim flexing away from the hub at all...just get a decent 3+ x build with some decent spokes with good tension and you'll be fine

marzocchi mx pro's i think.....i wouldn't if i were you, its pretty gay to be honest, the suspension absorbs all your power away from you

i really dont see the point of cnc backings....ive never used a brake with cnc backings that feels significantly better thsn plsccy backings...its just not worth it

sound advice there; Id stay with rim brakes to be honest, i prefer them by far

i pushed mine out a bit further with an allen key through the bleed hole ( 04 style ) but i guess slightly overbleeding is your best option with an 05

should be good boys..... 60% chance of precipitation though for the sunday.. and 40% for the monday

thats what mr muscle oven cleaners for !

i dunno...i mean bmxers do it....the only real obstruction would be the lack of a mech hanger ( on stock ) and the direction of the freewheel...i came to the conclusiona while back that it wouldnt work...but if it does ill have a go with it probably

i normally take a pasty/pork pies with me....and some swiss roll and some soup....