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Alex Dark

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Everything posted by Alex Dark

  1. exactly.....its just two companies in unrelated fields with the same name....whopp dee do
  2. which le? I was thinking the same paint job as that half black half white zoot that was on here a while ago
  3. yeh ill put some pics up tomorrow....they've still got a little bit of raceline on them....but only in the really hard to reach bits
  4. i used a truvativ dh for a whil and its bearings went a bit squiffy....on a truvy gigapipe dh now courtesy of woody
  5. i've decided to go 24".......im not really bored as such of stock...but i really want ti get all the streety stuff down...bunnyhops etc
  6. like the other two have said....the pads have been pushed out....just gently lever them back.....if its really hard to do i normally pop the pads out,turn em round so i can press the screwdriver against the metal backing instead of the soft pad compound that'll dent quite easily
  7. where are you getting your coust stickers from?
  8. im from northampton originally; didnt realise theres actually anything to ride up there
  9. i might be getting a zoot soon, and i think ill be using a 95 x 20* kore stem with answer pro-taper bars
  10. doesnt work, the caliper hits the edge of the mount
  11. i did mine yonks ago...along with me levers as well....
  12. i love that noise.....
  13. my koxx's honk sooo loudly its untrue ( very worn grind , coust frame, no booster )
  14. nice pictures dude, if a little dark....
  15. pretty much.....theres no real reson for a bash guard to be honest however if you want one made from billet alloy....i could make you one ....£15
  16. im using a k-5c and ive snapped it twice...however my k710 is fine Half links are fine....a full half link chain is prone to stretching...but they're pretty damn strong
  17. right....you'll need an isis crank extractor/ sq. taper crank extractor ( delete as applicable ) , a bb tool, adjustable or usually 32mm spanner amd some copper grease. The drive side bb shell is reverse threaded and the non-drive is standard thread. thread the crank extractor into the crank until its home, then tighten the central bolt bit against the bb. this will pull the crank arm off. Now put the bb tool on thge drive side of the bb shell, use the spanner and turn it clockwise. Then repeat this procedure for the non-drive shell ( but turn anti-clockwise ) if you only have a sq taper crank extractor; a 5p put on top of the bb will allow it to work with isis cranks
  18. trust nick to talk sense Anyway, My friend was in plymouth a while ago, skating up at central park for those of you who know the area.......anyway, he walked past the pub and some bloke walked out, turned to him, said something, then stabbed him in the elbow, he's got a big scar there now. Also, i was iding up there once on my trials bike......i suddenly heard someone say" come on lets head home now " thought this was a bit odd so i carried on riding....suddenly saw about 30 drunk oafs stampeding at me. I grabbed my mate and we rode as fast as we could ( now id like to point out that 18-16 gearing isnt the best for out running some white-lightning/testosterone fuelled wife-beaters ) i just about managed to get away, but it really scared me.....ive never gone up there that late again ( 11pm ).
  19. dude, thats terrible ...... dont be so passe about this ! its a bit more than "really unlucky"
  20. well done.... my thoughts exactly
  21. right...im bored of the colour...so white, black or polished? Bearing in mind if its painted it'll have the dents fillered
  22. use the little bit off a gel pen ( the finger rest bit ) and slide that over the end of the blade....works a treat
  23. t-shirts look pretty damn cool, i think i might have to invest in at least one...... Need any more stock riders? I think you're going to get annoyed with everyone asking that....sorry!
  24. looks really nice man, not as nice as mine though ;o) Where are you getting your coust stickers from? i really want mine stripped as well but il need new stickers for it
  25. hhmmm...... hs11 piston in an hs66, hs11 bladge bodged onto an hs33 body.....pedals epoxied back in after threads stripped, 31.8mm stem to 25.4mm bar with a bit of alloy as a spacer, the infamous pad bodge, several homemade boosters, zip tied rear freehub, bolt tapped into framne to tension rear mech, homemade pads, ducktaped magura line, epoxied magura connection barb, crossover made from fuel line from a scrapped car ( then bled with windscreen wiper fluid ), coke can in a rounded off sq. taper crank arm, coke can in bb threads, will post up when i remember any more!
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