Alex Dark

Go to a garage and try using a flywheel or drum puller?

Which frame are you running? What kind of riding? How many if any spacers?

I'd just go and meet up with some local trials riders, best way to learn

Incredible skills on such an oldskool bike!

Me, and two others from Cornwall . (Probably more from our end going too)

The uneven wear I've found is due to a loose fit on the plastic nipple on the slave/ pad and the distance between the slave prongs being too wide.

Avid elixir crs on my orange seem really good for what it's worth , far better than my hope mono trials on my old dd koxx anyway Pretty much all the new shimano brakes seem really good, even down to deore

Vincent's polished sky proto is the winner for me.....

Bit of loctite or get someone to tack weld the locking to the inner ( done this myself for my dirt jumper )

Onza Woodstock Zoo pitbull 04 Coustellier st blaise Zona zenith Team issue zona zenith Coustellier v2 Zhi z3r Also alongside ; onza t-pro, onza zoot, koxx xtp mk1, bionic b4r, koxx silver sky

Long ( cut out dropouts ) is 1030 360 +55 Short ( solid dropouts ) is around 1000 360 +55 Approximately

Use a bar on the end of the allennkey for more leverage?

Lathe or a mill

Both my front and rears did this due to, I think worn nipples on the slaves. Changed out to tnn in the end

Wigan : The old plaz backing a were curved, the newer ones are the same form as the magura backing

Id say a 127 27 stem personally, nice bike though I love mine.

The above I'm pretty sure is a 2 finger blade. Only choices are to my knowledge rb designs, fresh products and possibly an echo tr lever blade

Do not use a screwdriver on the threads, it's possible to chase any damaged portion of the thread with a very small file if necessary

Try turning the cog around and screwing it on, if it won't that points to the cog and that's your answer, if it does then try another cog / ffw on the cranks to check them

Ride with flipp and was massively impressed, but surely Williams is right .... Brake less is limiting to some extent

2006 hope mini lever, fitted to all the hope brakes form that age I think. 2007 style levers fit but are smaller, so less leverage and ultimately less power

I'd say worth nearer 330-380

Yeh it probably wont work to be fair but was interesting doing it anyway.

Thats a pretty sweet idea... really similar! Basically your foot sits into the pedal more, for instance I hate echo pedals ( dunno which ones they are, the real flat platform ones ) and love my mates v12s he hacked into with a grinder... with knackered pins i slipped far less than with my mg1's and felt more secure too. Id either have to do it as a step, or program a 3d toolpath and it really wasnt worth the hassle...that was just done on a manual mill by eye in under 20mins as a bodge.

Got bored after work the other day and had nothing to do so had a bash at combining the best BB axle i had ( reset ti ) with the best cups/bearings i had ( echo external ) The idea was to replace the inner sleeves that sit between the bearings and axle ( and cover the outer surfaces of the bearings ) with new Stainless versions ( same as orig. ) that would change the axle diameter from 25mm to the reset's 21.5mm, also to account for the narrower offset between bearings ( by making each top hat sleeve longer by half the difference). Here's the toolpath.... Drilled out to 21~mm then bored out to 21.5mm with a small screwcutting bar. ( left u/s by 0.01mm to be polished out ) turned the inner end to 25mm ( +\- 0.005mm ) allowing the bearings to tap on. External groove to create the chamfer you can see from the outside Parted off at .4 mm o/s Faced to length, then polished to give tap fit onto axle. Finished product; yet to fit and try. For anyone thats interested im a bit of a newb to this, but using an XYZ 425 prototrak. Hopefully give a nice light BB but with decent bearings......if this doesnt work ill just get some Enduro bearings and rebuild it as a full Reset unit anyway. Also modded my Mg1's; didnt fancy cutting or milling the centres but needed them to be more concave...so used a ball nose and removed most of the material and left some nice little grooves for grip