Alex Dark

He's on about using the water pressure to bleed the brake. A similar system is used for car clutches/brake systems i believe. To be honest, i would have though a bath bleed is both easier and less inclined to get you soaking ( if the hose comes off the x-over ). If you want to bleed on the bike, a syringe would no doubt be easier. Also, wouldn't there be a fair amount of air in the water?

nope wouldn't have thought so....I think you need the mk3's to actually make any noticeable difference

:| to be fair, that frame with basically dj components is hardly worth a bomb is it? I mean the maguras will only add £30 or so onto the value.

I've just been given a mk1 dengura body too...im planning on honing the bore, polishing it and making a new aluminium piston for it

Because my friend, your brake is working Nah, its just the power of the brake that makes it squawk. Normally a good indicator that the brake is working though, If youre that bothered a booster can dampen the vibrations that causes the noise. What pads do you run?

Erm, yeh id say long.... i ride an 1100 long coustellier ( pretty much the longest stock available? ) and im only 5 10" so yeah id say a long... around 1080+ length id say

*Sun rims? Basically mountain bike parts.... I'd say around £150 max, what hubs does it have?

I personally only buy second hand...and id build it from scratch..ive built all 5 of mine like that and saved a bundle

front vee...lighter works just as well I started off on stock....just got a mod for messing round on, if your small mod would be easier to learn on...as you're 6 2" id say stock to start

yupppp £79 i think?

Im assuming around £150...get us a spec list and youll get a decent valuation Trials parts? or just random mtb parts?

TNN LGV's Looks pretty lush, were the long stays on the proto? Far too long for my liking on paper..... Proto felt lush to ride though.

yep ive had the same problem..its hwen the frame has a really low standover height, so the slaves have to be more angled....only thing i can suggest is to use larger spacers, and bolts

depends how hard you bash it

erm more of an american thing i think...means the same thing really

truth..you need mineral oil

If the boy wants to do it then fair enough

post up a link of the video in NMC

weird ass front brake setup...but hey, id just go front vee if i were you bike looks miiiiint though, ive got one of the fluo yellow ones in my garage, really nice...quite similar to a monty geo if i remember correctly?

Use a 74kingz...just replace the stock springs with vibrasaw blades. I made my own 74kingz rip-off around 2 years ago, and its still going strong

Nah id just true the old one You're not bending past its elastic limit ( you need to bend it past the point where it'll just rebound and return to its original /bent shape ) Put the rotor on the bike, adjust the brake to a place on the rotor that looks true; then get a small adjustable spanner.... bend it where it hits the caliper/pads Generally you have to bend it as far as it is out of shape, past where it would be true. For example, if it has been bent by 10mm to the right past straight, bend it 20mm to the left.

I don't think they do...maybe you're thinking of the sl? 04 lever blades should fit it

surely the same as brushed rims?

looks pimp mines gonna look the same with my wheelset haha feels like im copying you on everything at the moment....same frame, crack in the same place, new wheels, just got a t-pro

wouldn't micro pits be the worst of both worlds? not a significant amount of friction generated compared to smooth...and less surface area compared to smooth? erm didn't plazmatic try some kind of disc rotor coating that worked like this?