N.Wood

Either keep the xcs or get a pro2t. No point going middle ground with the bulb really. Pro2ts are a much better hub (stronger axle, better bolts, better bearings aside from twice the engagement) so if you can get one on the rear I'd recommend it. Keep the xc front though. D521s hold grinds really well

I'm not sure I know what the issue is with it being on the right? I've been sidehopping both ways (left foot forward) for years and never wanted my bashguard anywhere other than on my right hand side. Infact I'm not sure i've ever really hit my bashguard when sidehopping.

XCs/monos had 24 and bulbs had 36 if i remember correctly. Agree with getting a pro2T.

Lovely jobber... How are you running a kaiser o nthe rear? Half link?

Jack Carthy yorkshireish Rohan JohnsBristol Martyn AshtonPorthcawl Danny MacaskillAnywhere in the world Martin Hawyeswas in Saltash, has now moved in with missus in north west London? The Trials Kingsyorkshireish Nick GoddardReading way Ben TravisScotland??? Ali CBlackpool Chris Akriggyorkshireish Ben Slingeryorkshireish Ben Savageyorkshireish Jack MeekReading way Damon WatsonHull Craig Lee Scottyorkshireish / works in south wales? James PorterMy house, Exeter Adam more wood??? Stan ShawTartybikes HQ is wher he lives in a box Nick ManningSurrey way Adam BassellNorthamptonshire way Niel Tunnicliffeyorkshireish?? Andrei BurtonExeter John shewsberyWhen not ballin outta control in Monaco he's near Porthcawl s wales Jon GrangerChannel Islands??? Martin Walker??? Ed and Matt Tongue ??? Kris LeesonUnsure but can get contact details Scott WilsonGood old Kent Joe MeherSouthend, Essex Thats a list of rough locations. You'll notie a lack of knowledge for northerners but up north = yorkshire so thats a good bet.

Well they f**ked that up then.

Please say these frames are lower than +35bb?

Only go as high as you need to on sidehops/taps/ups to two wheels so you roll onto it rather than fall onto it.

Show something fun to trials riders and they'll talk about physics.

Pretty sure thats bullshit. Think about it, its constantly moving so you don't put pressure on the same point constantly. Anyways... Its to do with cranks not having their threads machined completely true with the axle causing a slight wobbling.

If you're that bothered you could find a washer to fit and replace the thickness of the inner cage or do as I used to do before I started to not give a f**k and cut the inner cage to about 1cm square around the hole to use that as a spacer. It works fine without though so I wouldn't bother. Oh and the washers won't need sticking back in, just put the bolt back through as they were and bolt it up, the washer will be held in place.

Thats a pretty horrible read I have to say. I'm gonna just let you know I have zero depression problems etc so this may be a stupid and / or hurtful question, but i'll plough on regardless. Some of those things I can sort of get my head around as its kinda spur of the moment. Some of the methods, however, require some planning. Do you think 'today feels like a cold water bath day' then go to the shop, buy a load of ice, go home wait for the bath to fill then jump in thinking 'f**k me this is cold'? Are you crying at this point or has it become an every day activity? Sorry again for my ignorance.

Back in the day it was fairly common to have a trials gear and a 'getting around' gear. This could be because he didnt have enough spacers or whatever.

Undo the bolts and the 2 cages will come apart from the body. Sometimes the plastic washer is glued to the inner cage. That will need to be ripped off and slotted in once you've taken the inner cage out.

It is on the sprocket, he has two sprockets - Look at the photo.

That is a pickle... Try grinding some flats either side so you can get a spanner on there or put it in a vice.

They do a nice burger there.

How high is the ramp? You need to go more parallel to it, and turn in the air once your front wheel has missed it. Maybe try moving out from the wall slightly.

Agreed - to add to that, theres more than one way to get up a rock. Go up the harder side, try a sidehop to your wrong side, gap to hook from another rock, try and turn around on the top etc etc. If you just gap to the top then off again you're missing the potential for loads of much harder riding.

Check: Chain line, the freehub, and that double sprocket set up going on there. I'd probably put approximately £5 on it being due to limited chain wrap though - A locked out deralier or a twin wheeled tensioner (Rohloff, trialtech, try-all) will likely sort your problems.

Not really - I'm sure its a fad which will pass, enjoy it while its still cool among you and your mates

Do lots of guys wear eyeliner?

Sounds like the same sort of thing. I spoke to Tarty about it and he recons it may be something to do with expansion causing the sticky pistons. One way to tell I guess would be to have the brake cold, ride in the heat till it locked up, cool the brake in water then see what happens. I will be going out to Cayman along with matey and a spare brake so I'm sure we can conduct some sort of test if we're not too busy drinking rum.

Neither will be much better than your standard hubs. They'll be fine for normal riding but not for trials. Look into a second hand Hope Pro2T if a new one is too expensive. Theres no point buying a Bontrager / Halo hub for, say, £30 then paying £10 for spokes and building it up / paying £10 for it to be built only for it to break a month down the line. Buy a Pro2T as soon as you can, and it'll work out better value as you won;t have to replace it every other ride.