N.Wood

Pretty sweet, nice one.

Is this to do with some Echo stuff I've seen recently?

Some rear mechs use similar nuggets to hold the cable in, have a root around and see if one is similar.

I'm not mental, so no.

Well with the front ontop of the sloped rock and backwheel on the sloped face, get your balance, keep your bars straight. When you're ready, crouch down and explode up like a normal wheelswap. Once you get better you can play around with having brakes on or off (To be honest I cant remember when I let go of my back brake, been so long since I learnt it). No rear brake gives you more spring as your forks flex. Anyways, jump and make your rear wheel land ontop of the rock (where your front was) and jobs a goodun.

Gap to static hook then just wheelswap to the top? Got a pic or MS Paint of what you mean?

Links f**ked bey.

C'mon man if you're gonna talk the talk about Bolognese at least spell it right.

Thats cool - I have to say we as a bunch are hard on freewheels, and for reference I alone have snapped about 6 pawls, the lockrings are a nightmare, snapped countless springs etc on ENOs, stripped 2 ratchet rings and cracked 2 hubshells (even on the new improved shell)on a Pro2T hub. So if you can make an ENO last that well, I'm sure an Echo will be fine. Having said that, if you're happy with an ENO then you may as well stick to it

I would also add its the best freewheel I've ever used and will continue to do so. I'd rate it over an ENO any day. Each one has been 100% faultless up until the day it died (which takes a fair while)

The outer completely exploded under load causing the bearings, pawls everything to fly everywhere (X2) The inner cracking in multiple places (x1) A bearing or pawl snapping inside and causing it to lock up (x1) The first 2 were like a chain snap, the last 2 were easier to deal with.

In that case just shave off a reverse 'tache.

Chain reaction has quite a few. Anything in particular? Most of the decent looking clothes are BMX ones which are also available at CRC.

Thanks for the reply, very helpful! Its going ontop of a concrete floor, yet to decide what is the best underlay - Any tips? Yeah engineered seems to be a happy medium for me, I'll be paying for it myself and at 23 cant really afford the ££££ for solid oak when i have a sofa, tv, paint, carpet etc to pay for as well!

Yo, Im going to fit some engineered oak boards on my living room floor. Its about 25m sq. and fairly simply shaped - Rectangular and only a fireplace and stairwell to go around. Anyone laid this kinda floor before? Any hints or advice on good boards to use? Cheers then.

I'm not sure it comes out polished... I think it just strips the paint off, leaving it a dull raw colour. You'll then need to polish it up with brasso / autosol and some hard work.

Go any try some on. I found Hebos to be the best, some people like thicker gloves, some thinner. Try some for yourself.

They'll be the cheap, shit, steel beaded hard compound version - Not worth having for any serious riding really, unless its bone dry.

Lifes too short to worry about that shit son. Pad review said they're working really well anyways?

Some Trialtech risers and Tartybikes stem.

Make sure its a Hope Pro2T though

I'd buy it, makes it a shit load easier and you won't damage anything.

Still totally depends... But probably 2 - 6 months.

Correct - I use it all the time for sticking myself back together.

My King was pretty horrible for trials, and I run a SL now and wouldn't run anything else. Its not lighter it just moves the weight into the centre of the bike rather than hanging out backs.