N.Wood

T shirt is badass

Cut it neatly and squarely and file the end and it'll be fine.

I didn't need to cut mine down, it worked out fine with the stackers and stem I had. But if you do, cut it, it'll be fine. The threads extend fairly far down into the steerer.

Its not efflorescence is it?

Ask the tartybeys to do it?

Good wholesome activities, congrats.

Trapped nerve somewhere, probably your wrist / shoulder. EDIT: That sounds like I know what I'm on about. I don't, but that seems to be a possible cause from what I've experienced.

Sorry, I can't be f**ked taking another picture haha. Basically it will make it easier if you have a TT topcap infront of you. For some reason a standard nut (m4? can't remember) fits perfectly in the bottom of it because there is a small ridge which stops the nut pulling up through the topcap. I didn't take a pic because it fits so well in the bottom and is so full of shit it merges into the topcap and you can't see what goes on anyway. If you follow the gold bolt down to the base, thats where the nut is. A small ridge on the inside of the cap makes sure the nut doesn't just pull up the inside of the cap when you tighten it.

Freewheels and frames.

Ok, apologies for the giant picture. You wouldn't believe how complicated it is to take a picture on your phone, upload it to the internet then link it on here for a retard like me. Anyway, there it is. Nut is at the base, slots in perfectly. Gold bolt screws into that. The whole lot screws into the forks like it would do if you hadn't attacked it with a saw.

Some sort of Skoda Fabia / Polo?

Naw mines been perfect over about 3 years now. Been through 2 sets of forks and a stem or 2, still the same thing. Infact I now run a King topcap 'cos it matches my headset ( :kiss:) and my Try-all stem with sloping topcap snapped. So yeah, perfect and never come loose or anything.

Pull the brake a few times to reset the pads into their desired position. The use washers to space the caliper away / towards the fork leg depending on which side it rubs on.

Take pads out, use large flathead screwdriver or something to prise the pistons apart. I've found its beter if you do this when the bike is upright, i guess because the master cylinder is then at the top. Put the pads and everything back in, put wheel in and pull the brake a couple times to reset the pads.

I did some cutting of the TT topcap (chop the top "mushroom" bit off, put nut in the base, screw the whole lot in to the forks) which allowed me to put a nut in the bottom and the sloping topcap screws in as normal. Credit to Tarty Adam for the design.

Another vote for Trialtechs.

Why don't you just get a Hope brake instead? The Echo is just a bad copy of the hope anyway. Might as well get the real thing.

Whaaa, had no idea you still rode Tim! Good to see you're still about. Great riding, can't wait for the next one!

Every Echo disk I have tried has been shit. Out of XTR or Echo I'd go XTR, but even better go XT with XTR lever or a 200mm mono trials.

http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/20_inch_trials_bikes/onza_bird/c10p11578.html

I think he should listen to his customers (us). An hours worth of work making the changes Tom suggested above would mean he might actually get some customers.

I guess because its (in mine and countless other's opinions) a much better fluid. I've been running it for years and its f**ked up exactly zero of my brakes. If you ride comps or lots of longish natural lines its handy as you're much less prone to arm pump.

If you just want quick and sorta ok results a couple pad-sized bits of paper in between your pads and rim and ride around for a bit works.

You can make a headset press out of some threaded bar, 2 nuts and 2 big washers.

Just gotta watch out for animals! Saw someone in a Fiesta nearly hit a horse lying on the road Monday evening on Dartmoor.