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Everything posted by N.Wood
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I reckon it looks good... Presumably if you didn't like the lever you could nigrig some sort of C2 pro lever on there.
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Or higher wages in London to reflect the generally increased living costs.
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But the scratches are in the clear coat? I'd understand what you're saying if I was trying to remove deep scratches but for light marring I don't really see why it can't be done by hand? It's like saying you cant sand a bit of wood without a machine sander. It's the polish / compound thats doing the work, you just make it go round and round in circles like a rotary does. Anyway I'll see if I can do it and report back.
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Why not? Surely by hand just means it will take longer and deeper scratches will be harder to remove? A rotary put the holograms there in the first place. Thanks, heard good stuff about this so will give it a go Cool, just got some G3 swirl remover / renovator whatsit and from a quick go in the dusky light it seems to do the job, feels like it actually has some cutting ability which is good, my trusty super resin polish feels very smooth after but is good to bring the shine up after. I've used Autoglym Extra gloss protection sealant on my Skoda for years and found that really good, it was silver so depth of colour wasnt really there anyway, so a sealant was all it needed rather than a wax. Anyway, once polished, you just put a bit on a cloth (its very thin, like meths or water) and literally wipe on the surface (no rubbing) and after a few mins it goes cloudy. After about 20 mins you just need to rub it off, which is does so easily. Seems to last for around 4 months and kept the water beading very well, and easier to wash shit off when it did get dirty.
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Hello you guys. Just got a new wagon and want to have a go at removing some light swirls and holograms. It's a 12 plate VW in deep black pearl. Whats the best polish for applying by hand? I'm gonna do it over a few days so the time element of not using a rotary / da doesn't bother me. Thanks!
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"The new payment method for the Dartford Crossing will be run in a similar fashion to the London Congestion Charge. That means motorists will need to pay using the official Government site - gov.uk/dart-charge - or call 0300 300 0120. Drivers can also visit a shop with a Payzone terminal - visit payzone.co.uk to find your nearest. You can also pay in advance at Dart Charge Customer Services, PO Box 842, Leeds LS1 9QF. "
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A shame you put tarmac all over the vegetation, used to look quite nice.
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You could call it pARallette Ltd. Capital letters signifying the first letters of Adam Read's name. A real boon to the marketing of this no doubt great product. - Rusevelt.
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Righto I see. Yeah f**k doing that with plastic pipe, looks like a shit idea. Do you not need to wrap them in foam / a towel or is that just something a pussy like me would say?
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What are they for?
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My old LBS (Evolution Imports) had a King hub on a display with a cut out in the shell so you could see what was going on in where when you spun the freehub. That was cool.
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Anyone got / used a Caddy Maxi Life? I want the 140bhp 2.0TDI. I presume this is the same as VAG use across the board? How much would a good condition '03 Octavia Estate with the PD130 engine... on 197K miles... Be worth?
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Is that not just trials?
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Natural trials - I reckon out the front they would work well, as long as the width is there. Having said that, you'd have to compare the weight differences between a carbon and existing alu rim because I can't imagine there is that much in it. Street trials - I think these would work pretty well, given the tendency to run higher pressures that should protect them from dents. Would have thought you could make them a fair bit lighter than current alu ones, making spins etc easier? I'd have thought they would stay true for longer and handle side-loadings better then alu too.
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That spring is I'd be a bit worried about those little grub screws coming undone with the vibration.
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Yeah I used to have rear disk on my Yaabaa and while it had it's advantages (silent, good modulation, good hold on rounded edges, no grinding, good in the wet, no regrinding with a puncture) it had considerable downsides (weight, flexy spokes, reduced hold on sharp edges) that made it hard work. To an extent the same is true for the front, although spoke flex is not really an issue. But i'd imagine weight and the reliability of Magura (no rotor to bend mid section) are the main reasons he goes for a Magura. Anyways... Excellent vid, looks so very controlled. Love the front wheel stuff and the odd spin.
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I don't normally like coloured components but the red against the grey looks good.
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I wonder how many children he has locked up in his basement.
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Dunno about everyone else, but I don't ride that much anymore, probably once or twice a month I'd say. Mostly because I've started mountain biking so when I used to sit at work and daydream about where I was gonna go trials riding at the weekend, I now think about how much I NEED that brand new 160mm #enduro bike. I also bought a boat and got into fishing, so during those perfect summer days when I'd normally be up on Dartmoor I'm now somewhere in the river Dart or Lyme bay burning petrol and fish bothering. So shitty days are spent mtbing, nice days are spent on the beach or on the boat, and it gets harder to fit trials in around a gf / parties etc. Having said that I do enjoy it when I get out, I just don't have that burning desire to do it anymore. I think a lot of people in their mid to late twenties are the same.
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It seems a real shame that the 14 year olds of today can't make a mess of their bikes by covering them in gold Hope bits like we used to.
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Same here Mark. Its a real moral conundrum.
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Just short That tickled me
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Merino under layer, t shirt or whatever then a thin windproof softshell over the top should be warm enough once you get going but not restrictive or too hot.