Dan_Trials

Well living on an island off the north west coast of Scotland makes it pretty limited for me to find riding buddies. Infact, I started riding over 12 years ago and I have never ridden with anyone else (not counting people who I have got into the sport). I built a trials play ground (it got taken down after I left home), I try to find lines in the most simple of things, I ride where there are people who are likely to want to give trials a go, there fore spreading the sport. It is hard being the only trials rider in your area but I love trials and I don't need someone with me to do that.

That's roughly along the lines of what I was getting at, only I was thinking more about the torsional rigidity of the steel versus the torque applied to it. Like I said, sorry to be so anal, but when you build rally cars untill 2am it kind of becomes inset ISIS is a form of bottom bracket and crank arm. Rather than a square taper it uses a splined axle and corresponding crank arm bore. Compare these to your bottom bracket.

Yeah if one pad touches the rim before the other it will keep pushing untill it meets a force greater than it. This is usually the pad on the other side. Have a carefull inspection of it by slowly pulling on the brake a bit at a time and see what is happening. As soon as one pad touches, have a look how far off the other pad is. If there is a gap then alignment is needed. It is still possible for there to be air in the system even if it isn't leaking, although it would have to have been leaking (or incorrectly bled) at some point. When you bled it you did turn the lever so the outlet was at the highest point?

What grade were the two sets of bolts? Edit: Sorry for being so anal, just got a theory.

Has the bleed made any difference? You could try a complete fluid flush. What condition was the fluid that came out? Running a brake booster?

WTF? You should never do that. The manufacturers equip the vehicle with a wheel wrench capable of delivering enough leverage to remove the wheel nuts/bolts when tightend to the correct torque. If you over tighten them then how do you get them off when you have a puncture?

Yeah that too, I was only thinking about the slaves ha

Haha, but locktite does too might be on to some thing here....

Tape some P400 wet and dry to the work bench/ kitchen table/ some thing flat and rub the pad accross it. You just want to remove the layer of glazing that may have formed on them. It might not be necesary but I like to cover everything when I have some thing in bits, no point doing half a job.

Strip, clean, bleed and adjust. While the pads are off, reface them. Good opertunity to give the rim a fresh grind too. About an hours work and you'd think you had a different bike.

Lol, I read the first quote in your signature as part of your reply. Homebrew LockTite

You should replace your chain 2-3 times a year, depending on riding conditions and frequency of use. The Z510 gives the best return for cost/weight/strength. Plus you get them in colours now too so you can have a different colour every few months

Surely you can get rid of a few choices by how many spokes your hub uses?

LOL @ the gardening gloves! No reason it wouldn't work though! I use 661 Fort William edition ones, think they were on offer or something. Anyway, they are very comfortable and stand up well to shifting rocks and pallets about (something I find often wrecks bike gloves). My brother uses the Mace MX Comps and totally loves them, plus they look like more of a masculine glove compared to some out there!

Yeah, infact the whole bike looks unused

So what makes a difference to the grind?

The thing is, historicly, people don't read notices.

It shouldn't be necessary to take the whole frame back to bare metal. Treat the corroded areas by removing as much rust as possible then applying some Kurust, the gel type would be best. Then feather edge the repairs by working your way up in sand paper grit and enlarging the area slightly each time. You want to create a smooth transition from the good surface, right across the reapair to the other side. Work your way up to 400 grit dry, then key the whole thing with 600 wet and finally 800 wet. Spay on some 'isolator' such as Barcoat to stop any reactions between the previous paint and the new stuff. Then some grey primer, starting with the repaired areas to build them up a bit, let it dry very well, wet sand 800 grit untill it's all smooth, check for imperfections then move onto the colour coat. Hope that helps, any questions just ask

Does look good with that disc on the front. Nice chunky rotor too. Now lets see some stoppies!

Any where, or every where possibly. You can make a line as technical or hard as you want by being creative. Simple things like not pedaling or not using your brakes for example.

Hmm I see. I got the impression he was going to paint his frame, but it does make more sense that he would like his existing rim the same colour as his new one.

Me neither actually. Makes me want to go dig it out and watch it now. "Ready ready ready for the next chamber!"