darrenhopper

Are your clicks coming from the lever or the caliper? I had a click in one of my levers every time I squeezed. A shot of WD40 & a wiggle sorted it. As for the Tubes, if they're puncturing at the sidewalls then your tyres, or the air pressure you run in them, are probably to blame. Try running the front a bit harder & see what comes of it. Otherwise pick up a tire with stiffer sidewalls. If the punctures are along the rim tape then have a look for grit/glass in there. Also take a look at the length of your spokes & condition of your rim tape. edit: Also worth considering are DH tubes. Heavier but more reliable.

Are you planning on keeping the crank in it's rounded state? Just put a grinder to it & when the crank is gone take the bolt out with a vice-grips.

Story? If I were in your boots & on the lookout for my first bike, what I would probably do is hit ebay (budget) or one of the trials shops (Tarty or the like) for a complete bike. You could also find it very useful to take a quick look over the For Sale/Wanted section of the forum for someone selling a whole bike. Most every part of a trials bike is completely generic. More or less any combination of frame, forks, headset, BB & cranks will go together fine. Alot of trials bikes however require a 128mm BB, about 10mm wider than the max for most other types of bike. As a general rule the headset/steerer tube of your fork will be 1.125". The same as most mountain bikes. One of the biggest differences between trials specific frames & other types of bike is in the brake mounts. Trials bikes are designed to run with Magura rim brakes alot of the time & get 4-bolt mounts as opposed to v-brake mounts. The drive-train you choose will be pretty important as well. Trials is pretty hard on cranks, chains & rear hubs. So standard mountain bike parts will rarely do the job for much longer than a day or two. edit: As for manufacturer information, I reckon this forum might be one of your best bets. Choose a product & search for user reviews on it specifically. Most of the time someone will point you in the right direction pretty sharpish.

That's the very same on my bike! Bar & stem are on their third bike now & everything else is gone. New bars on their way now though. The creaking was starting to make me nervous!

The Truvativ has been doing me very well over the last year or so. I recently bought my second one & not because the first died but because I bought a new frame & needed a 128mm spindle. Highly recommended!

Have you any mates that ride Downhill or fast XC?? Stick the new brake on one of those bikes & take it out for the day. It'll come back nicely bedded in!

I've been running the Magura kit for about a month now, bought it because the plastic hoses kept kinking at the lever when I dropped the bike. They have worked fantastically from the word go & there was no problem with the crossover being too narrow. (I'm running them on an Echo Control, set all the way out.) That would depend on whether the Unex fittings are crimped into place or assembled by screwing two halves together. Also if the hose diameter is different the fittings probably won't transfer too well. Well worth taking a look at it though. You probably could use standard barbed fittings on the braided hose but I imagine the stainless cover would start to unravel quite quickly & you'd almost certainly start catching your ankles on the spikey bits. I'd also not be too sure about whether the plastic inner of the braided lines would be tough enough to work with barbed fittings under pressure??

I second that. If you've got a steel workbench or a large plate you could weld a couple of short bits of round bar either side of the frame and bend in the S under some heat. Just so long as there's still enough tire clearance. Smashing job though, I really like the shape you've gone for.

Hope products are always tip top & the trials brake is right up there. There's no reason why you wouldn't consider the Avid BB7 as well, at a fraction of the cost & amazing functionality. As well as the cost the Avid is alot easier to maintain.

It's certainly worth mentioning that if you've been riding on loosened cones & it's been enough to allow your axle to bend then it's logical to assume the ball bearings will be fairly ovalised if not cracked & completely knackered. You should have no problems picking up the right sized ball bearings loose from your Local Bike Shop. They shouldn't cost more than a quid or two either. Properly round bearings place alot less stress on the hub & are less likely to rattle the whole thing loose again. Make sure you've got all the tools you need for the job before you start! No point doing it if you can't tighten it all up properly. The correct cone spanner is a must-have for this job. edit: You'll have to lock each of the cones against the lock nut beside it to stop un-wanted loosening. If it all sounds a bit intimidating it probably wouldn't cost the earth to have a bike shop do it. Or at least it couldn't hurt to ask!`

Can I vote twice - or for Street in Capital letters or something like that? It's so much more fun than natural riding for me. Natural likes hurting my bike!

Have a squizz through the hubs on Chain Reactions You can sort them by price & see what's available cheap.

^^Second! I always just ask the shop that sells the hub for spokes. Even if you're not buying them together Tarty should have no problem pulling out the right spokes for you.

For an integrated headset you don't remove the headset in the conventional way. All you can remove are the bearings & any seals or top caps that come loose when you remove the fork. Also it's probably worth stuffing the bearing seats with tape or something to try keep the Nitromors from doing anything to the way the bearings fit. Then again there's probably not much fear of damaging it really.

That's cool enough, might give the stem a miss so. Are there alot of instances of failures in CF bars?

I don't know, the write up says it's T6 Aluminium wrapped in Carbon.

Hi everyone, I'm having no luck finding anything with the search button so I figured I'd just ask... Has anyone got any advice on a bar / stem combo? I've been looking at getting both in Carbon for the fanciness of it all but would like a little feedback, if possible, on what's worth buying. This is the stem I'm thinking of: And for the bars I was thinking of either the Onza Flats or the V!z?? All opinions welcome.

It'll be fine. Just be sure not to let it get loose enough to wiggle. That'll do all sorts of damage. Keep tightening them periodically & they'll eventually find a spot where they're happy.

coffee table & a couple of bricks to balance the bikey against. The nicer the table the better it works!!

I reckon the e2 is prettier, so if I was going to wear a lid it would be that one.

How do you mean clicking mate? Is there any play between either crank & the BB? Are both cups threaded into the frame correctly? Are the crank bolts tight? Does it only happen when you're pedaling hard? Are you certain it's not coming from your freewheel?

200 beans is alot cheaper than a new set of front teeth!

And a hammer!

Engineering works or any decent tool shop. Give them your required size & they'll sort you out for a couple of quid - if not for free. I sorted a full set of stainless fairing bolts for my motor bike... Free from a local engineering spot. They've ususlly got buckets of the things lying around waiting for a job & one or two bolts make no difference to those guys. Be sure to get Stainless though Mild steel rusts.

If you're doing a quick swap the safest way to go about it is to remove the wheel from the bike, pump the lever really slowly to shove the pistons out of the caliper. This will leave you a good reserve of fluid in the caliper/lines. Then undo the hose union at the lever very slowly & be sure to lose as little fluid as possible. Swap over & tighten up the hoses. It's a bitch to do on your own because there are 4 bits to worry about (Two levers & two hoses). Always better if you can source a mate that will help without f**king everything up. Anyway when it's all re-assembled, grab a flat bladed screw-driver & lever the pistons back into the body of the caliper. This will push the extra fluid back up the lines into the reservoir at the lever. The point of doing all that is to eliminate the possibility of a bubble where the hose was removed... That bubble will be pushed into the reservoir along with the excess fluid where it's harmless. Of course all that depends on not losing alot of fluid from the hose or lever body during the swap over. Best of luck mate & hey, let us know if you manage it alright. Later, D.