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darrenhopper

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Everything posted by darrenhopper

  1. I cleans my DH discs with IPA. Seems to do a tip top job. Cleared a spill of fork oil off the rotor just last week.
  2. Force fluid through from the bleed nipple on the caliper with a syringe. Keep the lever elevated & don't get the fluid on your bike. Take the pads out before starting.
  3. That's just daft! There's no way a real person could ride fast on something like that. You'd just fall over in the first corner. Where did he get the rear shock?
  4. Welding is quite easy to get the swing of & if you've an interest in it you should be able to develop your skill quite quickly. My concern would be trying to ride the bike once it's done. If you learn to weld on mild steel & hop straight to fancy tubing with all the same gear you'll have to re-learn your weld on that new material. Change your set up and all. Then once it's done the welds may well be a little inconsistent so you'll get weak spots. I knocked up a stretched out Rat Bike a couple of Summers ago with an old fork for rear dropouts, a BB shell from a kids bike, a 12" headtube & a six and a half foot fork. 26" on the back & 20" up front. And while it's hilarious looking & great fun to cruise on I wouldn't trust it for a second not to shear in two. As for a jig, find a frame close to the dimensions you'd like to build & construct clamps for all the major points on the frame, headtube, BB, dropouts etc. You should probably include a couple of markers inside the seat stays & chain stays so you don't get tire clearance issues. Also try to use as many bits from an old bike as possible, e.g. the headtube & BB shell etc. so it'll fit with standard bike parts. And best of luck with it.
  5. Couldn't agree more! Short cage for the win. Couple it with a road cassette & you should be very happy. That way each gear change will only change your ratio by one or maybe two teeth on the back.
  6. What sort of freewheel is it? Can you access the lockring before you remove the unit? If you can I'd recommend dismantling (over a bowl or basin) the freewheel & clamping the inside ring of the unit in a vice as recommended above. Put LOADS of WD40 on it too, that stuff is magic. Be sure to run it out of your freewheel though. Won't be good for bearings if you run it without grease. Torching it can't really hurt either once it's all taken apart.
  7. I've yet to bother masking anything I spray. Usually just stick some bolts in the threaded bits & stuff newspaper in the Headtube & BB shell. I imagine roughing up the frame will probably work but to be sure try throwing some decent primer at it first. Do it somewhere out of the way to begin with in case the paints react with one another & be sure to use the same brand paint as your primer. Often different brands will react with one another & just bubble off the piece you're painting. Breast of luck!
  8. That's ghetto as hell! How tough can it possibly be to track down someone who'll let you borrow the proper tool? But hey, if you mash the hell out of it..... Post some nice pictures! It'll serve as warning!
  9. My Maggies (New lever type) tore up my knuckles no end. Then I swapped out the lever blades for a Deng pair & moved them round a wee bit. That sorted it right out. Then that rear brake went pop so I swapped in my old Maggie & put a Hope disc on the front. The Old style lever doesn't chew knuckles at all & feels alot more solid than the newer lever. Probably because it's not on the verge of bursting.. Anyway the Hope started doing in my right hand Middle finger & I found that rotating the bar slightly put my hand in a more comfortable position so my middle finger doesn't get as close to the lever blade & it seems to be doing the trick so far.
  10. I'm not convinced! Don't get me wrong, I'm sure it would work & all but I reckon on a bolt that small it would be a bloody nightmare. My day job is in engineering & so far the smallest bolt I've used an extractor on has been M6 & only then because I couldn't cut a groove in it. A vice-grips (Mole-grips) on the end of the bolt is the way forward for me. If you crush the head then grind it back, remove the disk & hacksaw a slot in the remaining bolt for a screwdriver. And when you're replacing the bolts don't use the shitty wee bolts that come with the disc, go pick up a few wee stainless bolts in a hardware store. Cheaper than your lbs & by far a better choice. They'll never round off or corrode.
  11. That's my precise set-up as it happens. I ride stock & my rear wheel is a Try-All rim with DMR Revolver Hub & an ENO. (A couple of spokes for good measure). The only reason I can see for ever going back to a freehub is to have a second gear for the ride home. Seeing as I live pretty close to town & drive there's sod all chance of ever going back! For me the screw on freewheel just feels alot more solid, absolutely never slips & I gather the wider space between the hub flanges builds a slightly stronger wheel. Single Speed for the win!!
  12. Is it just me or is your chain on the wrong way up?
  13. What about a low profile headset? How much of the original steerer do you need in the stem clamp. Surely if you run a low Headset like this one you'll have 28mm of clamping area remaining??
  14. Just had exactly the same thing with my Maggy. Here we go lifetime warrenty!!
  15. Old school! Couldn't bring myself to put it on my bikey though. I've always thought they were an abomination!
  16. I've been doing my front wheel with a sandpaper grinder disc. It polishes all the shit off the rim & leaves really wee abrasions so braking is the business. I run one Green rock pad & one standard Magura pad (Black or Red)... Whatever's going. I would probably run a pair of greens but the other one eat itself when it was in the rear brake.
  17. That's good to hear, I reckon I'll drill out a bit of a hole in the front & rear of the crown... blow a little weld in to hold it all tight. Should be pretty solid after that. Cheers for the help.
  18. I'm using a maggy on the front & while rocking the front end I was holding the fork at 90 degrees. There is no visible or audible movement when it's like that. The clicking comes when the fork is pointing forwards. The movement doesn't come from the brake. I checked that by bolting the fork into a nutted axle in the bench vice & rocking the bike forward & back holding the bars. There is a definite click sound to be heard. I've got the notion it's coming from movement where the steerer is pressed into the fork crown & only welded round the bottom. I'm not sure about that though & hence the reason for asking if anyone else has had similar bothers. Cheers for the help so far, keep it coming.
  19. Story - I'm running a Stock Control Fork on this years Control Frame through a Pig Ball bearing Headset. Just recently it's started to develop a nasty click when I rock the bike on the front brake. I get the impression it's the steerer tube moving round inside the crown?? I don't think it's the brake mounts or the headset, everything has been stripped down, lubed & re-built. I can't see any damage to the frame or fork & I really have looked. Has anyone else had the clicking or done damage to one of these Forks / Frames? Suggestions?
  20. That just makes sense! If it's too loose, make it tighter. I fail to see the dilemma.
  21. That's a smashing design! Wouldn't it play all sorts of puck with your brakes though? You'd need super adjustable Maggy mounts or a disk mount somehow rotating round the eccentric wheel mount??
  22. Now now everyone, I think it's lovely.... so long as you don't plan on riding very hard..... or often............. or at all. Suppose at least it's different though, somewhat better than the dozens of bikes we ride that are all carbon copies of one another colored in a little differently! edit: That fork is mad! looks like they made drop-outs by hammering the fork legs flat!
  23. Nice lads at Hope did up my Big-Un, same job The hub came back brand new except for all my original scratches & scrapes. They were bloody quick about it too!
  24. If it's every 2 - 3 rotations of the crank it's probably the pin you used to join the chain. If this is the issue, you should be able to see one of the pins protruding fractionally further from the side-plate of the chain. I'd reckon on the outside of the chain because there's sod all to catch on up along the inside of the chain line. It may also feel a bit like a stiff link. Just shove the pin back a little with your chain tool so it looks, more or less, like all the rest.
  25. Does one fit? Just give it a shot! Should be grand!
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