Jamie_Neal

I currently have a set of '05 control forks which have taken a bit of a battering so I'm thinking about options when they go. I know the original urban was designed as the heavier/stronger fork (800 vs 600g or something like that) but having looked on Tarty there seems to be much less difference. Ok, the control is curved and black and weighs 839g and has a slightly different rake (5mm) and length (3mm) as opposed to straight and silver and weighs 884g. But can 45g make that much difference? Is there now less difference in strength/weight, is it more about looks? Cheers

Just a quick thought - would it be possible for you to post a selection of exercises for improving strength to the (generally) more vunerable areas of the body. E.G. Knees, ankles, shoulders, back and wrists. I'm just thinking it may save you time in the long run (prevention rather than the cure) - I know most people here have specific problems but it may help out the others just after general advise who can still ride at the moment (like me). Cheers, Jamie

Vans, lovely grippy sole - possibly a bit too soft which is why the heve holes in them. Not good for wet weather riding - but still excellent shoes.

Not good. I feel for you. I had 2 nicked in my time at Swansea Uni. What the hell were the security guards doing - surely someone should have been watching the CCTV otherwise its not much good.

Yep, done that. Well, twisted a bit. Just enough so it was really annoying. The warrenty is definatly worth trying if you've got the receipt (if not still give them a ring) as mine were replaced within a week.

Strength first, weight second - within reason (Urban forks over Pure forks for example). One issue I did find that with a light front wheel (stock) and riding in windy conditions made the bike a lot harder to control as it got blown everwhere.

You can also get Bbs that thread into themselves so don't require a thread in the frame. There's only one problem.......I can't remember who does them.

Scott are getting there. Carbon 7" full suss. If only they did trials bikes.

And the 100mm bb yoke off a Vario Styx?? Which makes/would make it a shed load betted than a Pitbull/Control IMO - Stronger bb issue

Good way of getting the point across only you'd need a solid smarties tube to see the comparison between ISIS/square. Personally I've used square for years but I am getting more tempted by ISIS mainly as I do see them as being stronger. But then again one snapped axle in over 10 years of riding isn't bad. I think at the moment the best option is an Echo external bearing bb as it seems like the best/longest lasting option over other ISIS bbs. Although if Middleburn started making Type x/Hollowtech II cranks I think they'd be onto a winner. Or if frame designers switched to Spanish size bbs.

Nice candle lit setting and ........ Sorry, you ment riding. A day at work usually means I'm gagging for a ride in the evening.

Nice, I've got a garden wall and 7 pallets but my girl friend doesn't like it as it makes the garden look messy

Ping a spoke with your finger nail, or if you're musical a tuning fork, and compare it to another wheel. If it's similar, it's probably about right. Or as Ash said, flex the spokes above where they cross. As for the egg - it's fine and fair play for getting so little on you're first effort.

Excellent cranks and lifetime warrenty (not for rounded tapers) so hang on to your receipt.

Personally, I use a set of Club Roost: The Push. Bit more than V12s but the pins have lasted me over a year of abuse - so far I've lost 1 to date. Unlike V12s which seem to fold up and die quite quickly. Bearings are superb. Buy some. Jamie

I had the same problem with running 8spd spacers as it is designed for 6 9spd gears (if that makes sense). I'm currently using 5 8spd gears and 1 9spd gear = 6 gears that work with an 8spd Kool chain. And I'm using a 9spd SRAM gripshift which works OK but it could be better. They do do 6spd ones (cheap). Jamie

If you're going to say it was built too tight, have Hope released guidance on how tight the spokes should be as otherwise, surely you can't say that. Sorry to stir. Jamie

Hey there, It was me, Matt Evans, Dan Shaw, Shane ?, Nathan Evans and James Bartlett. We may even get a bit more organised next year - provided the council let us do it again. Cheers for the support. Jamie

Next time keep your receipt as they have a 5 year warrenty and so far every time mine have cracked I've had them replaced free. You can even get a different colour if you want. I've had about 5 new pairs off them. Or, if you have your receipt, send them back to Hotlines (the importers) and they'll sort you out - well should do. |If not, try giving them a ring anyway - worked for me on one set. Good Luck

Try pouring boiling water on it.

Just had a though........ ......I don't know if any of you have seen the Scott High Octanes. They have head tubes that allow the angles to be altered and the size to be converted from 1 1/8" to 1 1/2". Could be good although it would be copying another company............

For the head tubes, we wouldn't be doing our own standard. 1 1/4" was around before 1 1/8" and 1 1/2" is being introduced now - e.g. manitou are doing it on their forks.

Just a few suggestions for discussion. Bolt through hubs: I know most people tend to use bolt on now but why not use the 10mm bolt through (as on DH bikes)? Guaranteed not to move and stronger. Could even do 150mm spacing - 9/8spd casette and a dishless wheel. Bottom Brackets: 100mm shell - Spanish size: Larger bearings, stiffer axle as supported better. Wider so it'll clear maguras. Head tubes: 1 1/4" or 1 1/5": Why not increase the size a bit from 1 1/8"? Not much added weight but a shed load stronger. What do you think? More suggestions welcome........

18/16 = 1.125 22/17 = 1.29412 22/18 = 1.2222222 22/19 = 1.15789 22/20 = 1.1 20/17 = 1.1764 20/18 = 1.111111 Take your pick