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Just before that spreads, it's worth noting that the two events are so temporally removed from each other that I really don't think it's fair to link them.

There is a lot of vanity out there, but I wouldn't worry tooooo much. I think it's largely that the people who make stuff with a purpose typically feel less need to show it off. I've usually only really seen people making practical stuff online in threads like this. "Here's what I'm working on. It's not working. Please help."

Thanks Harden Moor. Real damned fun. She's just retired for now on grounds of obesity. Switching to a 2.2kg Ashton frame lightened the bike by 800g The increase in stiffness probably makes more difference than the weight though, to be honest. It rides basically how I was hoping the DIY would, so my geometry estimations were a bit off, but glad I tried. I think the short chainstays feel nice but were actually making a few things harder.

I've been really enjoying riding, so I wanted to start filming again and I've hated every second of it. I'll try and film something which sucks less when it feels more approachable. Rocks are fun, and so are big bikes, and it makes my spine not tear itself to pieces, which I have to say I generally view as a positive. Yes, the tanwall looks outrageously dumb, but it happens to work really, really well.

I don't know anything about him so I'm not going to say whether you should or shouldn't trust him, but purely regarding the hub having issues, you need look no further than this forum. Many people have reported issues with the ratchet strip breaking or coming loose, amongst others issues. I personally have used two Pro4 hubs (one left standard, the other modified to 116mm) over the course of... maybe 8 years (?) and never had any issues other than a few skips at the start, but there are enough people saying it that there are definitely some issues with them. You don't have to take Yohan's word for it

Another one you probably won't find but just in case it pops up: Neon Bow was pretty close. 1090/+30/72. Edit: Also just realised - Yaabaa 1499 was 1080/+30/380.

Of the ones I mentioned, none If you want one at a reasonable weight, I wish you the best of luck finding a Coust V2 🙄 Edit: The rare ones I think would be things like Aorta, KOT, at a guess I would say some of the older Koxx frames, and I have a feeling the Magellan Tucana was pretty close. Edit2: And the older Pitbulls, obviously.

I might be having a brain-fart here, but aren't you describing a T-Rex? The "newer" black/silver type - not the blue/silver one. Failing that, Czar or Adamant in long from various years (06-09 region, at a guess?) might hover around those kind of numbers. Adamant might be a bit higher, but they were all sooo long. Only listing frames you have a realistic chance of finding.

I'm more trials than street, but have a look at the Maxxis Aggressor. It's easily as grippy as the Jitsie Reverz, weighs very nearly the same (+40g if memory serves), and rolls as nice as a Holy Roller. I've not had a single pinch with it (worth noting that mine is the EXO skin one). Grabs corners as well as the best purpose-made trials tyres I've had, and seems to last a LOT longer. It comes in 2.3, but on a trialtech rim I measured the Jitsie carcass width at 56mm and this is 52, so hardly worth worrying about. Best of all, it doesn't have Jitsie plastered on the side of it! I think they've gone up a bit since, but I got mine for £36, so a nice bit cheaper too! Not cheap, but a good price for a genuinely premium tyre.

Tom Mitchell is your man if you're wanting to ask about the Werkshop, though it's near Chelmsford so prepare yourself for a bit of a drive He doesn't come on here, but he's Tom Mitchell on FB Messenger or tom_radicalbikes on Instagram. He's about the soundest guy on the planet, but from what I've experienced he's been crazy busy lately so don't be upset if you don't get a reply straight away. There's a few places popped up over the years, but they all tend to be very informal and usually quite short-lived. "My mate's uncle runs a farm and will have a barn sat empty over late winter," or some such.

Out of interest, at what point did Inspired stop bracing their disc mounts? Not claiming that's the cause of the failure - I just hadn't noticed until now and now that I think about it I've not seen a braced one for a long time!

Oh right. That's not so good

I swear down, I never expected that to be an optimistic projection, but here we are still waiting almost almost twelve years later and it's still not ready! So hyped to finally see this when it's done. Biggest effort ever put into a trials video, by far.

So awesome to finally see another proper, actual trials video from him. Still got it!

I've heard this a lot over the years and I did actually look to them first, but they didn't have coverage on our area. At least they didn't at that time... Maybe they do now.

Maybe a question of timing rather than power? If one piston is slightly sticky compared to the other, it will move slower so they'll meet off-centre. Lube up the right slave's piston and see if that evens out the timing? That's my first thought, anyway.

Our ISP is Virgin. £24/month for the past two years as an entry deal. They just sent a message saying "your time's up, as of next month you're paying £47.50/month for the same service." Quick look online at prices for ammo. Ring up and state "No, if you don't sort it we're more than happy to leave you for a rival." They immediately reduce the new price to £25/month. A few years ago I would've been far too scared to ring up and complain, so would've gotten shafted. There's so many people out there that wouldn't want to, know to, or be able to make that call. I f**king loathe this culture we live in. The meek get shit on from every direction whilst the arrogant get rewarded. I despise that I've learned to be one of them in instances like this, but I also can't afford not to.

Trialtech High Rise

I use one made from a steel ruler. It is essentially a simplified 74Kingz/Heatsink style. I have a spare ruler so could make you one and post it tomorrow on Royal Mail 24hr, if you like? Or if not I will take mine off and get you some photo's. Failing both of those, spoke tensioners were "a thing" for a fair while. Poke an end through some anchor point on the dropout, twist is around the axle, and bend it such that the other end runs over the chain rollers. The tension provided isn't great, but it's good enough to get by. Make sure you gently bend the chain-end of the spoke up so it doesn't catch whenever the chain moves backwards.

I've been riding a lot more casually of recent. The stock is much better for me spine problems than the mod, and I'm really enjoying the novelty of brakes, so it's a shame that even though I quite like almost all the clips in this it feels overall just a bit mediocre. Rear disc is utter joy.

I think it would be easiest to recommend setting them... ...back in the box On a serious note: no idea, but curious as to your motives for wanting to run them? (Not saying you shouldn't - just unusual.) Is it wrist problems or something?

Maybe do that first, next time? Glad you got sorted.

Do we not have mods anymore?

I would've thought that too, but it seems like the back ends varied within the same generation of frame. I can't remember whose they were, but one 26" I encountered a few years ago had brake mounts too close to the dropouts so pads being set perpendicular (read: issues for washerless mounts) would have it hanging off the inside of the rim. Another 26" bought in the same year had them too far the other way so pads would scrub the tyre. That seemed pretty loose to me, given their integratedness in that region of the frame, and couldn't understand how it was even possible if it was assembled in a jig. Never had a tape measure so unsure if it was an incorrect chainstay length, or if the overall length was right but the mounts were just positioned a bit wrong inside that length. This was a while back, so I've pointedly not said "Jealousy" because there's a chance they were Cleeps. Kudos on the 2mm and 0.1° though! Still haven't measured mine. It certainly seems not too far off what I was aiming for and it rides lovely, so I don't want to measure it and have it placeboistically ( :lol: ) affect how I ride because a certain number isn't what I thought it was.

Is it a new brake, or from an older bike? You really shouldn't have them if it's new, but it sounds like you've got sticky pistons. Clamping tightly doesn't restrict piston movement. Fair idea to have, but people would routinely do bolts up tight enough to strip threads out of frames without it effecting the piston. There's a bunch of methods people have mentioned for combating this and I'm really not good with brakes so don't take my word for it, but: Remove the slaves from the frame. Take the pads off. Have a good wipe around the pistons to get rid of the accumulated crap and grime. Hold your thumb or put some sort of clamp (not tight - just to stop it moving) over ONE of the pistons and pull the lever. This means the piston that can move moves much further. Apply some lube to the sides of the piston when it's all the way out, spread it about with a finger and pump it a bunch of times. Let the piston return and wipe off any excess lube so it doesn't get on your pads etc. Repeat the above for the other slave. Reassemble and reattatch. It probably won't make it like-new, but it should improve things a bit. ...Unless it's the piston in the lever that's causing the slow return, in which case I'm definitely letting someone else take the reins on detailing a fix!