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Of the ones I mentioned, none If you want one at a reasonable weight, I wish you the best of luck finding a Coust V2 🙄 Edit: The rare ones I think would be things like Aorta, KOT, at a guess I would say some of the older Koxx frames, and I have a feeling the Magellan Tucana was pretty close. Edit2: And the older Pitbulls, obviously.

I might be having a brain-fart here, but aren't you describing a T-Rex? The "newer" black/silver type - not the blue/silver one. Failing that, Czar or Adamant in long from various years (06-09 region, at a guess?) might hover around those kind of numbers. Adamant might be a bit higher, but they were all sooo long. Only listing frames you have a realistic chance of finding.

I'm more trials than street, but have a look at the Maxxis Aggressor. It's easily as grippy as the Jitsie Reverz, weighs very nearly the same (+40g if memory serves), and rolls as nice as a Holy Roller. I've not had a single pinch with it (worth noting that mine is the EXO skin one). Grabs corners as well as the best purpose-made trials tyres I've had, and seems to last a LOT longer. It comes in 2.3, but on a trialtech rim I measured the Jitsie carcass width at 56mm and this is 52, so hardly worth worrying about. Best of all, it doesn't have Jitsie plastered on the side of it! I think they've gone up a bit since, but I got mine for £36, so a nice bit cheaper too! Not cheap, but a good price for a genuinely premium tyre.

Tom Mitchell is your man if you're wanting to ask about the Werkshop, though it's near Chelmsford so prepare yourself for a bit of a drive He doesn't come on here, but he's Tom Mitchell on FB Messenger or tom_radicalbikes on Instagram. He's about the soundest guy on the planet, but from what I've experienced he's been crazy busy lately so don't be upset if you don't get a reply straight away. There's a few places popped up over the years, but they all tend to be very informal and usually quite short-lived. "My mate's uncle runs a farm and will have a barn sat empty over late winter," or some such.

Out of interest, at what point did Inspired stop bracing their disc mounts? Not claiming that's the cause of the failure - I just hadn't noticed until now and now that I think about it I've not seen a braced one for a long time!

Oh right. That's not so good

I swear down, I never expected that to be an optimistic projection, but here we are still waiting almost almost twelve years later and it's still not ready! So hyped to finally see this when it's done. Biggest effort ever put into a trials video, by far.

So awesome to finally see another proper, actual trials video from him. Still got it!

I've heard this a lot over the years and I did actually look to them first, but they didn't have coverage on our area. At least they didn't at that time... Maybe they do now.

Maybe a question of timing rather than power? If one piston is slightly sticky compared to the other, it will move slower so they'll meet off-centre. Lube up the right slave's piston and see if that evens out the timing? That's my first thought, anyway.

Our ISP is Virgin. £24/month for the past two years as an entry deal. They just sent a message saying "your time's up, as of next month you're paying £47.50/month for the same service." Quick look online at prices for ammo. Ring up and state "No, if you don't sort it we're more than happy to leave you for a rival." They immediately reduce the new price to £25/month. A few years ago I would've been far too scared to ring up and complain, so would've gotten shafted. There's so many people out there that wouldn't want to, know to, or be able to make that call. I f**king loathe this culture we live in. The meek get shit on from every direction whilst the arrogant get rewarded. I despise that I've learned to be one of them in instances like this, but I also can't afford not to.

Trialtech High Rise

I use one made from a steel ruler. It is essentially a simplified 74Kingz/Heatsink style. I have a spare ruler so could make you one and post it tomorrow on Royal Mail 24hr, if you like? Or if not I will take mine off and get you some photo's. Failing both of those, spoke tensioners were "a thing" for a fair while. Poke an end through some anchor point on the dropout, twist is around the axle, and bend it such that the other end runs over the chain rollers. The tension provided isn't great, but it's good enough to get by. Make sure you gently bend the chain-end of the spoke up so it doesn't catch whenever the chain moves backwards.

I've been riding a lot more casually of recent. The stock is much better for me spine problems than the mod, and I'm really enjoying the novelty of brakes, so it's a shame that even though I quite like almost all the clips in this it feels overall just a bit mediocre. Rear disc is utter joy.

I think it would be easiest to recommend setting them... ...back in the box On a serious note: no idea, but curious as to your motives for wanting to run them? (Not saying you shouldn't - just unusual.) Is it wrist problems or something?

Maybe do that first, next time? Glad you got sorted.

Do we not have mods anymore?

I would've thought that too, but it seems like the back ends varied within the same generation of frame. I can't remember whose they were, but one 26" I encountered a few years ago had brake mounts too close to the dropouts so pads being set perpendicular (read: issues for washerless mounts) would have it hanging off the inside of the rim. Another 26" bought in the same year had them too far the other way so pads would scrub the tyre. That seemed pretty loose to me, given their integratedness in that region of the frame, and couldn't understand how it was even possible if it was assembled in a jig. Never had a tape measure so unsure if it was an incorrect chainstay length, or if the overall length was right but the mounts were just positioned a bit wrong inside that length. This was a while back, so I've pointedly not said "Jealousy" because there's a chance they were Cleeps. Kudos on the 2mm and 0.1° though! Still haven't measured mine. It certainly seems not too far off what I was aiming for and it rides lovely, so I don't want to measure it and have it placeboistically ( :lol: ) affect how I ride because a certain number isn't what I thought it was.

Is it a new brake, or from an older bike? You really shouldn't have them if it's new, but it sounds like you've got sticky pistons. Clamping tightly doesn't restrict piston movement. Fair idea to have, but people would routinely do bolts up tight enough to strip threads out of frames without it effecting the piston. There's a bunch of methods people have mentioned for combating this and I'm really not good with brakes so don't take my word for it, but: Remove the slaves from the frame. Take the pads off. Have a good wipe around the pistons to get rid of the accumulated crap and grime. Hold your thumb or put some sort of clamp (not tight - just to stop it moving) over ONE of the pistons and pull the lever. This means the piston that can move moves much further. Apply some lube to the sides of the piston when it's all the way out, spread it about with a finger and pump it a bunch of times. Let the piston return and wipe off any excess lube so it doesn't get on your pads etc. Repeat the above for the other slave. Reassemble and reattatch. It probably won't make it like-new, but it should improve things a bit. ...Unless it's the piston in the lever that's causing the slow return, in which case I'm definitely letting someone else take the reins on detailing a fix!

Sprockets sit really far out on 116mm hubs - you'll be fine there unless you went for an unusual hub. The chainline on mods has basically always been shit, but it's good enough for what we use them for. A 128mm BB on a T-Pro with a fixed rear hub has proven itself to work fine on many, many counts. Also note that a lot of the apparently excessive clearance is there to account for the rear slave pistons that you currently don't have attached. They protrude a decent amount, and will close up that gap considerably. It will still clear - don't worry about that - but it won't look so over-the-top when you have a brake on the frame.

Wow. Spammers bumping older spammers to spam without themselves spamming. Devious! If I didn't hate it, I'd love it. Impressed that they have their own language too. I can't understand the message of that post for shit

Just a sanity check here, because rotors aren't things that usually crack: Are you using floating rotors? (With an aluminium centre piece.) If you are, don't. There's a few high-tier exceptions, but the overwhelming rule of thumb is that floating rotors and trials don't mix. I run BB5s and know from experience some of the play will probably be pad rock. If you lock the brake on and push the bike back and forth, you'll see the pad clips move a bit inside the caliper. This is normal, and not a problem. If you are experiencing more movement than that can explain, something might be amiss.

I don't have a positive suggestion for you, but I can tell you with utmost certainty no-one on earth wants anything to do with any of those last three. Their inclusion makes the likelihood of you being a bot very high, to my mind.

Pretty sure they dredge this shit up every few years just to look like they're doing something and it never goes anywhere. If a police car pulled you over and dished out a fine for speeding or running a red, fine. Don't disagree with that. Number plates would be entirely unenforceable though. Look at how "illegal" the electric scooters you see absolutely f**king everywhere are. (Not to mention the plates are entirely the reporter's invention. Even the article says "dude said 'there are questions about how that would be done'". Total click-bait. What a surprise.) If you can't even police the people in cars that already have these systems in place and are much harder to get hold of etc., how the f**k do they hope it will be any different for cyclists after introducing a system that will face huge opposition to introduction?

That was my thought before the rotor died - it still did it on the Shimanos. Seems to be working now though so fingers crossed! Both the bite and hold are also SIGNIFICANTLY better on the Shimanos. It's almost like they did some actual R&D or something... Thanks all