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So I'm fed up of switching my wheel between my Cannibal and 456, and want one for each bike. (Sounds a short task, but each time it's add/remove rotor, switch sprocket for "cassette", change tyre and then remount, and my hanger is an "axle holds it on" type, so it's something of a faff.) It might also be nice bonus to have the full cassette range, rather than just the 6 block. Operating on ultra budget because van just died and the usual shit-show that is modern life. I like technical climbs so whilst I'm not fussy over having loads of engagements, I do want enough. Set the lower threshold at 72, or something like that. Hope wheels tend to be expensive, but because I only really ever rode trials I've no idea which MTB brand hubs are any good. Shimano hubs come up a lot, but then own-brand stuff like Yeti etc. I'm looking for 26" and 135x10. The frame can take a 27.5 so would be open to that, but it's a cost thing as then I'd also need a tyre. I can just imagine some of them are pretty decent and overlooked (like people opting for MT7s over BB5s or Crank Bro's over RockBro), but also some of them genuinely being shit. Nearly 18 years in this game and I'm still a f**king n00b

I might be missing something, but aren't you just talking about wheel dishing? Most wheels will be off-centre. Hubs with a full width cassette much moreso than a singlespeed cassette, and especially more than our teeny little trials hubs. Like this: It's 100% normal to have it like this.

Not wanting to say that isn't shit for you guys, but just wanted to point out that reducing hours or preventing extra hours are very different things to actively stealing back money from your employees' paycheck, and even more so when clearly trying to hide the fact they're doing it.

As above. The Trialtech crank isn't the specific part. It uses the generic HG spline, so any standard splined freewheel or sprocket will fit the pattern. The length issue mentioned above I didn't know about, so that's interesting. Another point to consider is that there's worse freewheels to be stuck with than the Trialtech! I use a Hope hub, but when I have used freewheels, the Trialtech has been the best and most reliable I've had. I've ridden with a few people on Cleans and Crewkerz and heard a lot of skips happening. Maybe that's not usual though - I'm too out of touch to know

Trials riders don't typically have freecoasting hubs

I'm onboard with improving things, but my hackles instantly rose when the first thing I saw was a proprietary rotor bolt system (Unless it matches the Rohloff type which has some existing rotors available? I'm at work so skipped through bits.) Hopefully I can put that aside as the rest of it looks like a fairly solid improvement. It depends on a few things implementation-wise - if they make those bearings custom sizes, which I can imagine they might, it's either going to be a huge pain in the arse to replace them, or just very, very expensive. Conceptually though, big thumbs up.

I'd immediately assume it's got a lot to do with only BMXers really caring about nose manuals. They're just not really a useable thing in other disciplines, unless you're intentionally riding in a style not intended for the bike you're on. (Edit: I'm excluding those fixie bikes for what I can only call "dancing" - don't know what they're called - because... well.... psssssssssssshhhhhhhhtt.) There are VERY few names on the list of trials riders who actually do nose manuals rather than well-controlled stoppies. Nose manualling up stairs is f**king bonkers, but doing a stoppie up steps I would argue could be even harder!

Trialtech 120x20 and Trialtech High-Rise tilted forwards but not super-forwards. Edit: Could be 120x17. Actually not sure.

I thought they only started on the Limey 2? If they were also on the Limey 1 then I retract my guess because I'm clearly a n00b

The top-tube kink was much more pronounced in the Toxsin. My first thought - which I'm beginning to doubt - based on the dropouts, hanger, BB yoke and headtube gussets was the original Onza Limey. Can't find any pictures to check against.

I recently got the MTB out the loft and have been chugging around my local woods because I noticed the time I most enjy riding at the minute is when me and a buddy set "Moto style sections" - climb this rocky bank, descend that gnarly chute. It's a full sus, and I'll be riding it for the foreseeable because it's what I have (and what I don't have is money), but I really like the idea of rigid for the simplicity, reduced cost and reduced weight, as well as practical functions like being able to treat it more like a trials bike with both wheels locked and shunting about. My question is to the people on here with On-Ones, and the like: should I pursue this thought, or will I reap the benefits of bouncies once I get used to it? It seems much harder on the climbs, but the posture and head angle etc. make the rock-garden descents much easier than the Hex. But for every descent there is an ascent, and I don't want to walk it. Think Chris Akrigg style riding, but much, much shitter Edit: Note - Not super fussed the idea of a hardtail. Also sticking to 26". They're big enough already.

You really are good at this! My suggestion would be to make your own. Or if you're not good at the kind of thing, do you know anyone who is? It's a fairly simple thing to make - just make it nice and bulky with lots of material spare so it won't break.

I've said it before and it'll never stop being true: I f**king hate humans.

Thanks. Just found a source saying that there's a way they can grab the money back even via FaF by going to the bank, saying they were scammed and to do a charge-back from the bank to PayPal, and then PayPal would take it from me. That coupled with some weird phrasing and linguistic quirks (possible typo's like "thanks you" etc), I'm pretty certain it's a scam. Update: Tried calling their bluff and said I'm fully happy to drive it up to Scotland for them to see it before purchase as I want them to be confident in it, and they asked for that to... not happen It's a scam.