bob87

No. The Mono is smaller and thinner than the XC hubs. The flanges on the Mono hubs are prety week as-well, my friend had one built onto a D521 and snapped it within 2 months of buying it. This is because the flanges are'nt as big or as thick as the XC's. I've ridden XC titanium hubs for the last 2 years and never had a problem with them.

If you look on the Zhi bikes website: www.zhibike.com. You'll see that Fred Savage is the UK distributor, so yes you can get them in England. They've also got some nice brake mounts and the four bolt booster is super fat, might get one for my new Leeson.

The big deal is that these cranks were suposed to be one of the strongest cranks on the market. They were'nt even a year old, i never actualy gave them any serious abuse either. Silverfish the company i bought the cranks from said that what the cranks were used for voided the warranty on the cranks, rubbish, Raceface state themselves that these are freeride cranks, so that should cover street riding in my eyes. Just wanted to post the pictures up to see what you thought, i now have black Middleburns on my DMR.

395mm chain stays is perfect, my Pashley has 16", just decided to make my new rear end a bit shorter. As for head angle, i don't know I'll as when i phone to order the frame, something not to far off my Pashley's. Wheel base should be around the 1100mm mark, I'll measure my Pashley when i get my Echo Urban's and minus the differance.

This is the measurements your looking for: 395mm chain stays 420mm seat stays 370mm high bottom bracket 318mm seat tube 560mm top tube 700mm down tube 128mm head tube There we go, these should be correct.

Sorry, it's a stock frame. Jesus that would be one massive mod frame.

http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/2940/photo0012zw.jpg Thanks guys. As you can see this picture is of my snapped Raceface cranks. I was out street riding on my DMR trailstar and fancied manualing some stairs, so i did. As i hit the bottom of the stairs this is the result.

Hey guys, i was going to post up a picture of these cranks i snapped last year but cant seem to figure out how to post them up. Some help please.

If the chainstays are anything like the 05 python then, no it won't fit. The part of the frame where the seatstays and the chainstays meet is to big. This means the dropouts look like flat plates welded to the chainstay, your frame has them but they're to big.

Right, thought i would mess about with some tube lengths for my new frame; 15 and a half inch chainstays 16 and a half inch seatstays 14 and a half inch high bottom bracket 12 and a half inch seat tube 22" top tube 24" down tube 5" head tube Will these work?

Dont quote me on this because i've just read reviews about it. The frame length is between 38-39 inches i think.

I was and i wasn't. I meant take the cranks off, use a chain-whip and the freewheel remover(the one with the four prongs). Then you tighten the locking ring of the freewheel with the tool that looks like a half moon with two pins on the end. Sorry about the confusion, i just like to do thing the proper way. It saves damaging the bike and you.

So why do companys make a tool specialy made for tightening the lockring on the freewheel, when you can just ride your bike, are you now saying the manufacturers have wasted there time making this tool?

Bump Does anynody else have anthing to say about this?

On some freewheel there are four curved slots. Acs make a tool that fits into slots and takes it off in seconds, rather than sitting there hammering the hell out of it. Simple and easy.

Because it saves mashing the hell out of your freewheel and cranks. Or worse, inserting a screwdriver into your hand.

Thanks. Yeah i'll let you know how it runs. Looks beefy as hell, hopefully stronger than my rear mech anyway.

I was out on my bike yesterday and bent my rear mech pretty bad. Enough so that my chain came off the front end and tore my damn jeans. Well i was on Ebay this morning looking for a new one(Ultegra). But i realised i don't really need gears because i never change anyway. So i typed in chain tensioners instead, to my surprise it came up with a few. I bought the Gusset Bachelor Tensioner. Has anybody used one of these before? OR heard much about them? You'll find them on Ebay, they look better than those crappy DMR STS.

Forgot to ask this at the start of this post but is it second hand, new or both your looking for?

Some of the parts in the drive area are useful but you don't need front or rear mechs on a mod frame. Any other parts your not sure about? Skewers? How the hell could i forget forks. Sorry about that.

What parts is it you dont know about? Sorry

OK, apart from the frame and maguras you'll need: Stem+Bars Wheels+tyres and tubes Headset Freewheel+chain Chain tensioners or snail-cams Cranks+bottom bracket That's pretty much it i think? Check Ebay, its great for small bits and pieces like this.

Thats a bit harsh. Dont listen to him, i like it. The golds a real original colour choice. Looks well pimp. Are those the Echo Urban forks? The front End looks well high, how does it feel?

I would say the T-Pro but i ride stock. It just looks a bit longer and maybe a bit smaller, and the tubing looks to be stronger.

For sure. If your going to build the bike from scratch try and order most or all of the parts from the same shop and ask for a discount for buying a big order. Some companys are good like that. What sort of spec are you looking at?