bob87

Thought so, when i could'nt access their web page i thought something was wrong. Well that sucks. Checked Ebay but theres nothing there. Whats the name of the shop? Not really to intrested in the levers but i would be intrested in trying to find one of their boosters. If theres any other suggestions on boosters choices post them up as i'm open to all types. my new frame will be in four bolt, is it better to get a four bolt or stick with a standard 2 bolt design? Thanks for the help.

Nokian, tioga, maxxis, specialised, kenda, dmr and halo. All these companys make 24 inch tyres.

Not really sure what you mean by "degrees". But as a street rider i don't particularly measure stuff i usually hit it at about a hundred miles an hour and hope i make it. Learning to control your bike takes time and effort, nobody learnt do do this overnight. Just keep practicing what people tell you and you'll get there soon.

Hi guys. About three years ago me and my friends found this company called Kule who made Levers and Boosters. Back then i really wanted one of their booster because they looked cool and they were strong as hell(so I've heard anyway). The reason i didn't get one back then is because there was no UK importer for them. I was just wondering if they still make stuff or even still exist. I've tried the links on some U.S bike web pages but none of these seem to open, maybe they changed their Address or even the name of the company? If not is there anywhere i can purchase one of these boosters, i know they might be a little outdated but what hell they looked beefy back in the day. Thanks.

2 years ago i think. Yeah he almost killed himself doing it for the first time. Nasty.

It's on his section in the new Trial Noir video.

1= Tioga Downhill 2.1f/2.3r & Fat 66. 2=Had 4 pairs over the last 6 years. 3= 26 inch. 4=7/10 for the down hill's and 9/10 for the fat66. 5= Smooth street/concrete. 6= Usually around £25-£35 mark. The wear on the Downhill tyre is good but not to soft which means it lasts longer(usually 7-8 months), whereas the Fat66 is softer compound giving more grip while sacrificing longer life. 7=A nice wide spaced tread pattern, soft compound and thick dual carcass. Usually steel beaded as well. 8= I've ridden with Maxxis, Kenda, Irc, Continental and Panaracer tyres and Tioga's come out on top every time. The even, wide spread tread and the strength of these tyres is superb. Never had any punctures with these but this could be due to the fact i run Maxxis inner tubes. The only other tyre that rivals this in my mind is the Maxxis Swamp Thing.

What does'nt happen?

Why would i need to be abusive, i can see i was wrong and it was supposed to be a joke so being abusive to you for making a wise crack at me is just stupid and childish.

Fair enough, I'll take that boot in the balls. I thought that someone had tried to be a wise b*****d and fool me and i took it seriously thinking you were trying to be a smart-ass. Just my nature i guess, pretty funny though. Sorry about that.

Just saying man, if your going to use Photoshop, make a better job of it. Fair enough anyone can make pctures up like this but i'm more intrested in getting actual proof that him and his friend have done this.

Evidence my ass, Those holes are super fake! You can't even see the steerer tube. and the holes are white not beige colored like the back round!

That's more like it. I'll check around and get back to you. By the way what happened to your Saracen?

Sounds good to me. He's come on here blagging about how he drilled holes in his frame and doesn't show pictures. This makes no sense, if i drilled holes in my frame the first thing i would do is show pictures of it. Then i'd show some of it snapped in 400 places 2 seconds after i started riding it.

But you have'nt told us much about what you want out of your new frame. Give us some more details.

Yeah but the only reason htat Easter got away with making this bike is because it is so compact unlike a some trials bikes. How many trials frames are made out of 520 Reynols by the way? None.

That makes no sense putting in a splined(isis)bottom bracket in is the same as fitting a square tapered bottom bracket in. Go for the square tapered bottom bracket because the isis bottom bracket are easy to wear out. I'm ridding both at the moment and the Isis one just keeps breaking. The bearings start to grind and you try to fix them then you find out that only some can be taken appart without braking the outer locking rings. Otherwise you've got to sit there with a hammer and screwdriver trying to nock the damn things off, its just to much hassle just to regrease the bearings again. My friend has also Snapped one, not sure what it was but might have been an Fsa one, snapped it in half because the bottom bracket thinned out in the middle. Not good.

So you ride everything? Long or short? What type of metal? How tall are you?

Yes trials has changed a lot but not on the same end you are talking about. When i started trials(about 5 years ago) there wasn't much in the way of trials frames around so we all used dual type frames. I think i had a Claud Butler. Not having much natural terrain around Inverness we just used the strees for ripping around in, hence the reason i suck at doing rocks and stuff. I've just started back to trials after about two years off and to my surprise everybody is riding around on these bike that look like bigger versions of mod bikes. I've always been street riding since i started and if you look back to the older trials videos(Contact, Evolve) you'll see this is why riders like Ryan Leech are so good. Bmx influenced trials has always been there. Riding hasn't changed, just the bikes have.

Is there anyone out there that knows about or has had one of these shifter?

My god that was funny. Nice chest plant!

Yeah he's considering doing this but putting it back takes time and fixing it would take ten minutes if i new what was missing from the shifter. Everyone knows what it's like, you'd rather fix it than send it back. If no one has information or internal pictures of this type of shifter then sending it back is our only option, but this is a last resort.

Hey guys. My friend son just got a new bike, a Mongoose fireball. The bike arrived in perfect condition and the only thing that needed done was to align the gearing. I decided to tune the rear first as this is the way I've always done it, i got them tuned perfect. Then onto the front, the shifter changed down OK but when it was pushed to go up it turned full 360. We found that one of the two tensioning springs was stuck shut, so we sorted that but while trying to put it back together i noticed there must be something missing. The part I'm missing is the bit on the inside that sits atop the white pulley(I think). Does anyone own one of these trigger shifters or can someone get me some internal diagrams. I've already checked the Sram website, so no luck there. Any information is much appreciated. Thanks

So what are the best pads for a ground rim. I've ridden koolstops but they are rubbish and dont grip. I'm ridding Monty pads now and the rims going to get grinded again tonight. It's a harsh grind so are there any pads that have good grip while lasting longer than a couple of weeks on this type of grind?

The forks on both bikes are made by a company called Recorrido, a Spanish motorcycle suspension developer. The fork may look cheap and nasty but look at who they're made by. Loads of companies who develop motorcycle suspension move into the mountain bike industry. Look at Marzocchi they're probably the best suspension makers out there and they've been making motocross forks for decades. Good choice on the front shocks by the way, not many trials riders out there ride suspension anymore.