Elliot

I've got Hs33 rear with water bleed, echo lever and a monty hose splitter. I can't say I noticed a massive difference to be honest, perhaps a slightly sharper feel, but that was offset by the spongeyness added by the lever I put on. If you like to tinker and want the brake to be the best it can possibly ever be then go for it, otherwise its probably not worth the hassle. If you end up doing it, then I think Onza had a how to page somewhere, cant find it at the mo but someone on here might be able to help. I do remember it suggestes using washing up liquid as a lube to get the barbed fitting on, which worked for me. Plus dont try it unless you have the hose clamp to hold the hose while you knock the fitting in.

thought BMF rims were re-branded dx32s?

Well typically I went to take the hub apart again all set with camera to take some photos, but I couldn't even get the "needle bearing seal ring" out of the driveshell! Admittedly I only had a pair of long nose pliars to remove the seal ring, rather than the CK tool, but this time I just couldn't get the sucker out. Hey ho, guess I just buy a steel driveshell with the bearings in it cos I cant get these ones out! Cheers for the help anyway guys!

Right, drive shell or freehub, apologise for the confucstion! Christ knows where i pick up my terminology from. I know what I'm holding in my hand, but it makes explaining things a pain in the arse if you can't give the damn thing the right name! I doubt if there really is something fishy going on; its probably my crap powers of description coupled with never having taken a Chris King apart before. I have given all the parts a clean and lube (gt85 and finishline), and now I've stuck the hub on my get-around bike until I'm happy that its not going to skip on me. What I'm going to do is take the thing apart again over the weekend and try removing the bearings (PHB516) out of the drive shell by tapping them with a socket. What I may well do though is take a few photographs and post them up here. I doubt it'll show you guys anything out of the ordinary, but it might at least give me the oppurtunity to learn a bit more about the hub. Cheers again guys for taking the time to explain!

Ah, that makes sense! I'll try a little gentle tapping and then if it doesnt come out I may wuss out and maybe re-think buying a steel rotorbody. I'm bloody glad I didnt get the split ring off now, I'd have ended up with a load of ball bearings in my hand and a bemused look on my face! There is a split ring in the bearings in the rotor body, from what dave85 said it'd be part of the bearings (PHB516 on that diagram) which hold the bearings together. Cheers for the diagram though dude, that really helps! I'll give the socket method a crack then. Cheers guys!

there is a split ring infront of them though, and I really dont fancy trying to force bearings past a split ring. I might try leavering apart the ring and at the same time putting a bit of force on the bearings from the other side. Cheers for the idea dude.

Cheers for the responses guys. Ok, so I took off the rotor body and in there is a threaded sleeve that holds on the needle bearings. I removed that sleeve by using some long nose pliers, opening them up and fitting the tips into the grooves and hey presto it unscrewed. Now still in the rotor body is another set of sealed bearings that I cant get out because of the split ring that holds them in place. How do you get off the split ring and remove the bearings that are still in the rotor body? Tried putting the tip of a knife into the split and leavering, and it dont go no where! Ta, e. Edit: as soon as I am happy the ck is run in, with a new rim, spokes, steel rotor body and HD axle I'll get pics up!

Hey all, got my hands on a CK classic form here (Cheers Danny!) stripped the thing down and I'm well pleased with how clean it is. I intend to put a new drive shell on it as its only got an alloy one, and in the interest of cost reduction I want to keep the bearings out of the alloy one. I got the needle bearings out ok by using long nose pliers opened out to unscrew the bearings from the rotor body, but there are some more bearings in the rotor body that are held in place by a split ring that I just cant get off. Any advise/ideas? Ta, e.

Have you tried writing a letter addressed to his folks explaining the situation? granted they may do f**k all about it but I imagine it'll have more effect than your bebo intimidation.

Speaking from the militant wing of the ginger panthers, I will find all you gingerists, and make you feel the full force of the ginger fury.

There has clearly been a bag load of thought that has gone into the frame, but the dropouts seem quite a simple soultion compared to some of the intricate CNCing that goes on on other frames. How come? Is it back to strength and durability over weight saving? Were you tempted to try and shave some weight off there?

if you want cheap: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=11240 and nice and light with smooth sealed bearings

So, why have they gone for a forward facing seat tube if it means a more flexy rear end?

I know its a mod frame, but in this thread the question of DOB flexiness was raised and the reply was not at all. I'd like to hear from some people who have ridden/owned a DOB.

You have recieved a new feedback. Below are details concerning the new feedback. Type: Good Rating SummaryGood, arrived very quick and as described. Ta! Given By: Elliot You were the: Seller Date: 1205226417

No worries, good luck dude!

emails like this make me laugh, apparently I won a BMW and $850,000 today, go me!

I'd start by changing anything thats broken first, there is not point upgrading one part while something else is f**ked. Then I'd get a new rear cassette, a roadie 8 speed, something like 21-11 so you have a good spread of gears and some get around gears. This will let you have a play around with the gears and find whats best for you, plus you can take some links out of the chain and get that mech a bit more out of the way. Though make sure that your chain ring is something close to 22 tooth (cant see from pics). Brakes is the next best bet, theres nothing wrong with v's so start by chaning pads and maybe grinding your rim. Then get decent new cables (e.g. linear slick). After that I get hold of a decent rear hub, a hope mono would be perfect, strong, fairly decent number of engagements and cheap second hand (£25-£35 is what you should be looking to pay). Once you've changed these things (and maybe your bar/stem combo though theres nothing wrong with what your've got if your just starting) think about a new frame and forks. There are some really cheap deals about at the moment, including this and this (though the second has a different rear hub spacing to yours).

Heatsink do a bleed kit for £8.50.

Autosol Polish bit for a drill/dremel

The forming and welding is amazing, and the detail where the seat stays meet the top tube/box thing is is sooo intricate, but what is the point of the butt fin? It looks like a load of work has gone into incorporating the thing, but its ugly as, and doesnt seem to perform any function? So what is the point of the the thing?

£1800 for the car about 5 years ago off my brother, £1600 on a re-spray and sort of the body, £400 on bbs splits I have in the garage waiting to be re-furbed, then maybe £500-700 on the stereo £300 on springs and dampers, and then other shite like steering wheel and boss, etc, etc. The frightening thing is that it hasnt been driven in about 4 years, since I went to uni (no money for tax, insurance, MOT etc.). But my bro used to work for Jabba sport, bulding engines, so hopefully when he gets back from his 6 month stay in OZ I will have the money to get an engine built up and get the damn thing off my parents drive!

Like mine?

I've had it for a while from climbing too, and I found that climbing tape around the finger, between the joints helps. It gives a bit of support to the tendon and I found it made it hurt a little less. Alegedly vitamin E helps aswell, wiki: Vitamin E has been found to increase the activity of fibroblasts, leading to increased collagen fibrils and synthesis, which seems to speed up the regeneration and increase the regenerative capacity of tendons I found though its just a matter of time and taking a bit easy.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...48977%26fvi%3D1 same as echo magnesium, Viz magnesium, atomz magnesium, onza hognesium, for less than half the price. They are soft though, so the pins will comout sooner or later, but they are light at 376g for the pair.