Elliot

Hey all, probably a stupid question, but is there any harm in running a gu le frame without mech hanger? I have a 74kingz tensioner and on my old frame I cut down the hanger so it was still on the frame, but I have just bought a frame off here without a hanger, any point in buying a hanger just to cut it down? Ta!

Like I said, no complaints with mine, though I have yet to give it a real bash, but even if I do then they sell replacement springs. The runner wont do any damage to the chain, and as long as you set it up ok (not try and tension the crap out of it) it'll be fine man. Plus the thing only weighs 52g!

Generally you get what you pay for, I have a 4-jeri on one bike that I use as it lets me run 2 gears. It keeps ok tension, is pretty sturdy, but not hard to hit and it does tend to bend the mech hanger. On my other bike I have a 74kingz which keeps immense tension and is really out of the way. I also hear Rohloff are great, and if you have a sub 13/14 rear sprocket it would be better to get a two jockey wheel system as it gives better chain wrap with smaller sprockets. I have never owned an un-sprung tensioner, but I have heard that they can slip and loose tension so I would go for sprung. In short, buy a 74kingz if you can afford it. If not, and you tend not to hit the mech/mech hanger go for a sprung tensioner with jockey wheel.

Took a about 2-3 weeks me, but then it was my 12th rib and the crack wasn't too bad. Did it while I was working a ski season, got to the point where I could only turn left when skiing down the run so thought it was probably an idea to see the doc. He told me to take a couple of weeks of skiing, and after that I was not too bad

grind or no grind?

122mph? Holy Sheeet!

That is actually a genius idea! I bought a second hand ck hub a while agoe where the sprocket had literally dug its way half way round the alloy driveshell. As I didn't have a wide base sprocket at the time I was just seriously careful with the dremel, and it worked fine. But I think forteh's idea is the best!

Unless its a thin based cog on a alloy cassette body, in which case you may find that the cog has dug in and you cant get it off. Best plan of attack is to cut it off using a dremel, being careful not to cut into the body itself. Then it you file down the mishaped areas of the body and buy a decent wide based cog. That way, you might/should get away with not having to buy a new cassette body.

KCNC do some pretty cool jockey wheels. Alloy cnc'd with proper bearings (I think). Sold by Clee Valley Cycles or look em up on eBay. They also come in some sexy anodized colours if your into that sort of thing.

I think ease of use. Navigation is a piece of piss on both, and the itunes store makes getting more music ridiculusly easy. I mean as I sit at home on my wifi network I can download any music that I can think of to my iphone to listen to in about 1 minute! Same with Iphone applications, I'm going bouldering in france next week so i thought I'd see if I could find a french transator app for my iphone, found it, downloaded it and started chatting up an imaginary french chick (tu veux prendre un verre? Tu as beaux yeux, j'ai envie de toi, embrasse-moi - sorted) within about 1 minute.

when you take off the stem and look at the top of the headset there is generally a split ring sitting underneath where the stem was. If you can find yourself something to fit into the split (flat head screw driver if your careful) and try and 'open' the split a little, it should start to pop out. Once it does verything should come off pretty easy.

SO NER!

mk1 passat?

Ah c'mon! gotta be one or the other!

Audi 80?

Sure?

vw mk1 polo

Commando?

Monty Python and the holy grail?

CORRECT! Too slow though, so unfortunatly we have to try and work out wha the hell anzo has posted!

Get Carter?

yep, sooo many children of the 80s!

TO SLOW MO FO!

shawshank redemption