Elliot

- What does loose cones mean? the bearings in your hub are held in place buy a cone shaped nut, when this nut loosens the bearings and therefore the wheel itself can wobble and start to move around - What effect does it have? (My back wheel does wobble side to side a little - will it fix that?) loose cones will give your back wheel a wobble that will get worse as the cones get looser, it rape your hub if you leave it, if your tighten and grese the cones the wheel wont wobble and the hub will last longer - How does one tighten them up? cone spanners, and if its your bmx you may need to take off your freewheel (cant say I know much about freewheels though) - What tools does one need? cone spanners, and what ever tool you need for your freewheel - What are the risks of leaving it like that? it'll get worse, raped hub, your brakes will begin to rub, but just get it sorted, its not a big job go here for more info have a look around on that site, it'll tell you most of what you need to do to maintain your bike, even as much as wheel building, which I found piss easy when I followed their how to. Good luck dude, I'm sure you'll get it sorted!

I think unless your gonna spend a decent wedge of cash and get a decent ISIS bb, with either roller bearings or external bearings so they last, then stick with square. Plus ISIS cranks themselves are more expensive. However the cranks dont round as easily on ISIS, and (correct me if I'm wrong) but I believe that the larger diameter axle in a ISIS bb makes it less likely to snap. But thats only ever gonna be a problem if you started riding biggg stuff.

It may not be the route you want to go by, but I thought my experience might be useful... I bought a second hand 800mhz g3 ibook 4 years ago, it was 3 months old and I got it for £600ish off ebay. Even then it was expensive for a second hand computer which was slow compared to the pc equivelent. However I still have that laptop and it is still my main computer. All the software on it is downloaded, I download music movies and all sorts of utility programs that bugger around with the settings but I have never had any problems with viruses and I have never needed to wipe my harddrive or lost any work off it. It was part of a run from the factory that had a fault with the logic board, this has admittedly broken on 3 occasions rendering the computer useless, however apple have replaced the logic board and returned it to me with no loss of data and no charge each time, despite it being a second hand purchase. For the good customers service, the great stability and lack of viruses, not too mention the sexyness of the look of them, I would consider a mac. But they're expensive mother f**kers. e.

imagine your bike all the colours of the rainbow! Sweet Jesus though if anyone tries this be careful!! I do not want replies along the lines of 'because of your post I tried anodising and now thanks to the sulphuric acid involved I am blind and have no nose and/or cock'

thats a bit much dude, like punishing us all for the actions of a very small percentage. If it was not for the for sale section I would simply not have a bike. I have bought a shed load of stuff, and people have nearly always been helpful and communicative. Of course there have been times when I've had to wait a while, but stuff has always arrived and at a price that I can afford. Still I do completely agree that when enough people complain, action against an individual member should be taken. though that said I don't know anything about this case and I think people without direct experience should be careful of getting involved and confusing things.

I've read that before, but because I know how clumsy I am and because I had heard so many people do it and like it, I was thinking of bleeding with water at the same time. Thanks for the info anyway though dude!!

hope you dont mind me repeating hyjacking your thread dude, but I have to trim down my front brake line, and this thread had just about persuaded me to use water; cheaper and more viscous. But you tried it and dont like it? how did it feel pulling in?

A fair point, except that its iron that rusts; steel rusts as its an alloy of iron (or so my hazy recollection of chemistry classes tells me). I was more coming from not knowing that the internals of the maggies are all aluminium.

Nice one! and the point about there never being a thread is a decider, TF users will bitch about any f**king thing, so if anyone had problems it would be here!

Sorry to sound like a noobie, but will there be no issues with corroding internals with water? Just the idea of filling my nice new shiny hs33s with water fills me with rusty dread!!

Thanks guys, as helpful as ever! I'll just decide wether I'll run splitter or braided hose. maybe i'll run one front one back and compare. Cheers anyway!

So took your advice and spoke to the guys at Tarty. Amongst other things I asked them about fittings, and they said this: so from that then, getting hold of cheap braided hose seems a bit redundent (although i think I can use it for just the crossovers). hey ho. One thing I would like to do though is start using this with braided hose, and car brake fluid (as viscous as water, no freezing, and no paranoia over corrosion). But how to fit the splitter with braided hose? bit of a mute point anyway cos I'm too skint at the mo to buy braided hose fittings!

inside and outside? I was thinking just pulling off the hosing thats on the brakes now, taking off the barbed fittings and putting them on the new braided hose? Am I missing somthing? now that sounds like a plan!

not too fussed on my second hand echo frame, or my second hand echo forks!!

dont think they'd be particularly keen on it, they sell braided hose themselves after all! I know that the hose my bro can get is not exactly the same (it being car hose), for one it doesnt have a plastic coating over the braiding, so I wanna try it myself and see how it goes.

My borther can get cheap braided hose and I'd like to get braided on my maggies, but he needs to know what guage the hose is. Apparently the braided hose comes as -02 or -03 or -04 etc etc. Anyone know the guage that maggies use? >Edit: looking at the hope hose it seems that the crossover is a thicker diameter than the rest of the hose, so I gues it would have a different guage?

Where abouts you going? I worked a season in St Anton a few years back, was seriously good fun! A bit more on topic though, if you want to pic up cheap board, boots, bindings go round the shopes and ask if they have any test/demo gear for sale. Its stuff they get to test which is used on max 12 rides, then gets sold on. I got £120 worth of Ride bindings for £60, and they were basically new!! If your a man desperate for deals, why not check out some forums? http://www.snowboardclub.co.uk/PNphpBB2-viewforum-f-15.html - though theres a registration fee for this one http://www.goneboarding.co.uk/Forum/Gear-F.../ShowForum.aspx Good luck!

f**king A! It pisses me off that modern universities seem to see students solely as a source of revenue, and in instances like this were they blatantly are not caring enough about the students once they have got them through their doors they should have their arses kicked! In the real world if you were dissatisfied with a service provider you would just leave, but with universities, because you cant leave they are lax. Security looks good but is shit, administration is pants, buildings look great but are too few for the over subscribed courses! Whenever you can, kick arse, and make the f**kers provide a decent service! right, rant over. Elliot

Shit, sorry to hear that dude. Hope you healing well, and that the back protecter works well for you. Just remember to take it easy and let it come back in its own time. Good luck man.

Could look at something from the snowboarding world, like this: http://www.snowboard-asylum.com/cgi-bin/ps...ser|1,0,0,1|12| I was thinking about getting something like it a while ago. A mate had one of a similar design and said it performed well, and you do need a fair bit of back mobility for boarding, but how well that translates to trials? fuk nose.

I recon this ones the best: http://www.bikewebsite.com/build.htm step by step guide complete with photos rather than diagrams!

Buy a couple of steerer tube spacers, this makes sure that when you cut your forks down they are not too short for a new frame or for flogging later. You may also need to move you star fangled nut down (the nut in the steerer tube). Take the bolt from your headset and screw it into the star fangled nut, put a block of wood over the bolt and hit it with a hammer. Do this after you have marked up the tube for cutting so that you can move the nut below the cut line before cutting, so you don’t cut your nut (which is bad).

fair enough well i used to have the truvativ 32 tooth rock guard and a double chain ring set up, 5mm wide didnt bend and wore fairly well. now I have the truvativ 22 tooth, doesnt seem to bend either, but doesnt seem to wear aswell. have only run these for 4 months or so a piece, but for that time been cheap and fairly relaible.

Yep, seems ok, though it gets scratched and gouged alot easier than my mates (an old echo I think) and its only 6mm wide. That said I got it new for £16 on ebay so I cant really complain. but apart from how well it takes abuse and how light it is, what is there really to pick between bashrings?

Totally! I built my bike up from scratch knowing bugger all about trials, after i started riding i soon realised that alot of the stuff i bought wasnt right or good enough, now 9 months later i'm on my second frame, 4th forks and the only orignal bits from the first bike i have left are the stem and cranks! mind you i did turn into a bit of a tart somewhere along the way and started wanting good stuff rather than just cheap stuff! but it would have been seriously cheaper to just by a good second hand whole bike from the start!