Elliot

Yeah, but how much did your v setup set you back?, whereas hs33 can be had pretty cheap. The problem with hs33s on v-brake mounts (which I run) is that they flex a fair amount, so you'll never get a brake thats as solid feeling as 4-bolt mounts with a decent booster. Doesnt mean that they wont hold though, with decent pads and a good setup, just think about buying some v-brake boosters and bodgeing them on.

not the rear cable, you can put the front thro cos the forks and the bars spin with each other. there was a thread about this a while ago, but thats hydro, other than that how about v-brakes and a cable gyro? Not sure if you can use that cable giro as its meant for u-brakes, and I'm not sure v-brakes and u-brakes pull the same amount of cable?

the axle end is exactly what I mean, thanks! I'm still not certain whether to salvage or get my money back though, what is worying me is the fact that when I opened the packageing the freehub fell off, and bits of spring fell out. For the springs to be that f**ked the wheel must have been ridden on while not put together properly, meaning that the rachet might be screwed. How tough is that rachet, and how can I tell if its knackered? If I have to send the damn thing back its going to be a f**king pain! it took 2 1/2 weeks to arrive with all this post office strike shit, and I'm going to have to wait for it to be sent back, get a refund, find another wheel then wait for the f**king thing to arrive. GAYNESS! again, thanks for all the responces guys, the people of trials-forum never cease to impress me!

gottcha! thanks dude!

there was only 1 full spring in there, the remains of one (as in pic) and the third is no where to be seen. so we recon ask seller for £20 back, buy spings and the spacer that holds the freehub together, and good to go? edit - and the pawls are fine? never having taken a hub apart I was expecting them to be a bit less rounded? how do I tell if the rachet is dead?

Been looking at a shit load of wheels, must have read that somewhere else. still you recon its not worth repairing? Post office is so gay at the moment, took 2 weeks to get here, makes me inclined to repair rather than send back and wait for a refund, so sure its not worth repairing?

Hey all, so I bought this on ebay it arrived today, I opened it and the hub fell apart. What I got is this: This was sold as having new internals and clearly they are raped, and this wheel has had more than 1 grind. I think they tried to change the internals, f**ked it up and sold it. The hub did not even have the outer washer that holds on the freehub. So is the hub salvageable? I'm gonna need new springs and pawls, and I think I'm gonna need a new freehub body because it looks like the teeth of the rachet in the hub have raped it. But what about the hub shell and its internals? Do the markings on the freehub indicate that the teeth of the rachet are going to be f**ked? and the axle is bent, only by a mm or so, does it need a new axle? thanks for your help guys, if you have had experience taking apart hope hubs please say so and give me your thoughts. ta, e. ps, not gonna be checking this til monday/tuesday cos I'm at Poole for some cliff climbing

Diamond!

So I put together a commute/trials/street bike out of second hand part bought here and on ebay. I’ve just bought a nice second hand mono to put on it. Now I’m also getting a second hand cassette which will be a cheap 7 speed to go with the shifter I have, just with a better set of ratios than the cassette I’ve got. So to get this 7 speed cassette to fit to the mono I’ll need a 4mm spacer, because the mono will have an 8 speed sized freehub, right? Or at least that’s what I figured looking at Sheldon Brown’s site. ta. e.

From the picture it does not look like the cog has been too deformed. What it might be worth doing though is putting the chain over the cog to check how it sits on the cog. If there is alot of play, or if the chain is not getting deep into the cog, but just resting where those marks are, then it might be time for a new cog. Like I said, it looks ok, but check it out. Re-reading it seems that your worried about the threads too, they look ok, and to be honest I dont believe Quando hubs arent exactly the best on the market.

If the cost is an isssue you may want to think about improving what you've got, you may find that decent pads, a ground rim, and decent cables can improve your system. Although it still wont be a patch on decent maggies, and if you look long and hard enough and you can find them for about £25.

18? you'll be lucky, my borther still goes home on weekends and he's 34! anyway congrats dude!

Dont use a hammer and screwdriver dude, it'll kill it. use this. Having the right tools for the job makes life seriously easier and really prolongs the life of parts

maybe something to do with the torque tightening the spokes on the drive side of the hub more/first, pulling the rim to the right? would of thought that this is similar to the reason why you cant run radial on the disk side, but you can on the non-disc side of the hub.

Not sure how heavy they are going to be (cant find them on weight weenies) but these mag pedals are light at 360g, and only a fiver more, although they do come from china. They are the same as Hognesiums.

with that many avaliable they will probably re-list it. Keep an eye on the items for sale by that seller, or just send them a message about it and ask.

Hey all, found these on ebay and thought you might like a heads up, over 110 avaliable in 2 threads so plenty for everyone! (well almost) http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...21502%26fvi%3D1

Building up my first bike I bought a rim off ebay that was really light thinking I'd make a bake wheel out of it. Turns out it was light because it was only about 15mm wide. built it up and gave it a go and the roll was silly. You couldn't stay on the back wheel cos if you jumped to one side the tyre would roll round then ping back into shape sending you flying off in the opposite direction! Lesson learnt = check the full details of what your buying, and buy wide rims!

Hey dude, Since feb I have been commuting from SE London (Catford-ish) to Watford. I started off going by public transport, 2 hours each way. Then about a month ago my gf got a job in Watford too and we started driving in together everyday around the M25. One memorable day involved a 5 ½ hour commute. Fun! We finally moved to Watford last weekend and my commute is now 20 minutes on my bike. Long commutes are do-able if the job is worth it. The 4 hours I cooped with ok, but I had no spare time during the week and was lucky to get 8 hours sleep. Anything around this length of time you don’t want to be doing indefinitely!

That would be well worth adding to the Wiki dude!

Depends what you want really, for general chatting there is indeed an awful lot of bollocks on this forum, but if you want help with technique, set up, what to buy or anything relating vaguely to bikes, and if you want to buy sell stuff off of people 98% of which are safe as houses, then this sight is pretty cool.

Cheers for the answers guys, there much appreciated, I think I'll get out the wet n dry and maybe even take off all of the laquer, then re-laquer it. again, cheers guys, what a knowledgable lot you are!

how thick is the weave anyway? am I likely to be able to get through a layer by hand with wet n dry?

Clear coat layer as in Laquer? Yeah I think it is that thats scratched, it does not seem to be the carbon weave that is damaged. Like I said though I'm not at all familiar with Carbon fibre and how its made up, so thanks for explaining! I'll give the wet n dry a go and then re-laquer it. I've got no polishing machine (nor a polishing bit for a drill) so thats out, but thanks for the link anyway Brendan!

Hey all, Bought a Leeson carbon fibre & ti seat on here, and its light as feck, but a bit scratched here and there. I’d like to rub it down and lacquer it but I have never done anything with carbon fibre so I thought I’d ask you knowledgeable lot. What do you recon, I could rub it down with wet n dry then spray lacquer it, or I could try something like T-cut or autosol on it or….? Let me know what you think, particularly if you’ve worked with/on carbon fibre before Ta. Edit: and while I'm thinking about it, I don't spose anyone knows the seat post size of an Echo Bounce frame? might be the same of some of the other old echo seated frames?