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Onza Limey 320 Help!


josh barker

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18-12

standard mod gearing,

the chain is way out of line

That's a bit weird. I guess if you can get away with changing the BB length then that would help but 127.5/128mm is pretty much standard for ISIS these days anyway. How does the spacing look with the rear wheel bolts loose? Does the frame 'pull in' much when you tighten the bolts up? Is it because your hub is 110mm spacing to allow for snail cams but with the Onza you don't need them?

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That's a bit weird. I guess if you can get away with changing the BB length then that would help but 127.5/128mm is pretty much standard for ISIS these days anyway. How does the spacing look with the rear wheel bolts loose? Does the frame 'pull in' much when you tighten the bolts up? Is it because your hub is 110mm spacing to allow for snail cams but with the Onza you don't need them?

no not really its a pretty nice fit on backend of dropouts

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Dude I had this problem on my skull and it made me wanna smash it, really, however there is an easy solution.

Turn the sprocket round so the teeth are next to the spokes rather than the drop outs.

Problem solved for me anyway, I have an echo TR hub and it worked on that anyway

I've done that before with a threaded sprocket but had to make a thin shim because the chain was getting caught on the spokes without one.

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Hey buddy. I had a little trouble building up my limey 320 for the same reasons. My spec ended up as

Monty cranks with trialtech ti halfring and monty freewheel

Wipperman 808 chain (its 8 speed, so narrow)

Monty rear hub with 4 mm of washers on the driveside end of the axel to space it out to 110mm.

Monty 12 tooth rear sprocket

Monty 124mm BB

The most important part of all this was the monty BB, and trialtech halfring for me.

If you have issues at the moment, why not try getting a thin spacer to go between your cranks and freewheel if you arn't already running a bashring in there. Be careful that you have enough threads left on your crank though.

If that fails, the next question is, how straight is your chainline at the moment? If its straight, then flip your rear cog around so the teeth sit nearest the spokes, and make a small spacer so the chain doesn't rub the spokes, as the guys above suggested.

If your chainline isn't straight, then its time for a new BB.

Your rear hub may also be contributing because its probably a hub designed to run with snail cams at 116mm spacing, and therefore without snail cams, the threads for the rear sprocket may be very close to the end of the axel. Thats why flipping the rear sprocket round may help.

Jack

Edited by Jack_M
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danny i run isis

If that fails, the next question is, how straight is your chainline at the moment? If its straight, then flip your rear cog around so the teeth sit nearest the spokes, and make a small spacer so the chain doesn't rub the spokes, as the guys above suggested.

If your chainline isn't straight, then its time for a new BB.

Your rear hub may also be contributing because its probably a hub designed to run with snail cams at 116mm spacing, and therefore without snail cams, the threads for the rear sprocket may be very close to the end of the axel. Thats why flipping the rear sprocket round may help.

Jack

my chainline is not straight, i run a t-master back hub 127 onza isis bb(gonna change it to a 122) trialtech cranks

think in the morning ill try some washers on the rear hub axle because its just going to eat through my frame because the chainline is so bad

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