All Activity

Most reliable hub I've had since getting back into street trials just over a couple of years ago is the TMS hub. I've had a Pro5 and can concur it likes to skip but is the most free spinning. I'm running an I9 just now, it skips now and then but overall very good and the amount of engagement points is awesome. But saying that, I will be putting my I9 up for sale next week and going back to my TMS hub. Mainly to free up a bit of cash for my upcoming house extension.

Currently running the hope pro 2 since building a bike again great hub but I’ve immediately noticed the lack of enragements spoke to a few people that are saying the pro4 rip out ratchet rings and pro 5 skip alot i9 are meant to be decent in all aspects but now brilliant BUT they have just brought out a hydra 2 anyone used it? Has 3 teeth per pawl which is effectively tripling the grab when it engages its designed for emtb so will be to take high torque been out the scene for along time so seeing peoples opinions and if I’ve missed any other reliable options?

Just spotted an ancient clip on the latest Fail Army, anyone identify the rider? (I'm assuming a Paul Mitchell but the name doesn't ring a bell)

We will see after my night shift week.... break 1, send 2.... Nice!

here is a good science based response

I am still trying to figure out how to time precisely doing gaps on a ledge. And I still have in my mind that multiple incidents where I gap on ledge with pefect chain breaks..... I will do try to improve my ways..... By the way, EXTENTION just sent me 2 pieces of freehub for free.... Seems glorious yet I am curious.... Thanks for the inputs guys!

Didn't see a massive issue in that particular video, but it came a bit more apparent from the other videos on your channel. There definitely is some "hammering" effect or last minute kicking, if you know what I mean. And you seem like a fairly strong guy so that might be it + bad luck with the parts. Probably try learning to jump more with the body and less with the pedal kick. If you watch pro competition riders they barely lift the front foot when they gap (some small pedal kicks or preloading for drops are different thing). For gaps, they have already preloaded their cranks a bit before the actual preload for the jump which happens with the body. And their ankles/calves do a lot of job, almost equally on both legs. Much easier said than done, I know.. 😃 A good way to practice would be taking off from a ledge or something. So you kind of have to keep the pedals fairly level, or the rear wheel rotates too much and slips off before you get any power down for the gap. As an extreme example, rail gaps or stuff like that don't really allow much wheel rotation.

Scottish Bike Trials will be hosting the BIU European Cup 2025 at the amazing Bob MacGregors venue on May 10th/11th Hope to see you all there

I am just an old fat, short, heavy weight, late boomer learner.... Just trying to progress...

Mind posting a clip of you or at least your cranks when doing a gap? Must be a "bitch crank" issue. If it's not, then I don't think it can be an user error in any other way. If you preload a big amount suddenly and kick very aggressively without letting the hub engage first. Sharp impact with momentum is likely the reason, not power. We see hugely powerful riders using these hubs without constant issues, but they are smooth as. In fact I've been struggling with similar issue for years, since I originally learnt gapping with way too much preload/kicking with the front foot instead of shooting forwards with my body and trying to be more equal with my feet. It's really hard to get rid of that unwanted muscle memory and I still occasionally struggle with that. Often when I try to put all my power on something, the front foot unconsciously lifts way too high. But my hubs have been doing relatively well though, if not counting those faulty products that everyone else is having problems with too.

Not todays, but anyway, a couple of manny gaps: 3m and 4m. manual_gap.mp4 manual_road_gap.mp4

Yes, i made one. Just enough tension to get rid of chain slack. Too tight and I can't crankflip, too loose and it slaps on the chain stays. No chain tensioner; loose/tight chain issues.

Are you using a sprung tensioner?

So if it's not the environmentally degraded grease in the hubs, maybe you should skip leg day in the gym

the hub is I assumed well sealed. Things that I feared on my experience now; freewheels made from steel hub shells stripped (Hope, Novatec, Morality) this one all made from 7075 (shell and freehub). if only both of these worlds come together....

In the last 20 years, I broke just one freehub on my city bike (bought in 2000, cracked in 2021). I weigh 70ish. There has to be some detail in your gap technique that kills them. Or do you have some special dust or sand that clogs the pawls where you live or something? Like that fine Oz outback sand that gets through seals like it's nothing, I mean.

I could build a rear Shigura with an MT5 saddle, would probably be the least work to get a running bike. Thanks!

Ouch 😣

Can't comment on the Avid, but Magura with BBB pads (the blue organic ones) is absolutely silent, pads seems to fit slightly tighter than stock. Lewis is a blatant Trickstuff copy, not for the ethically conscious.

My pedal kick honestly is somewhat weird to see or maybe. I stopped doing gaps straight front, usually diagonal or sideways since the first time i stripped my hub and landed nuts over the stem. Or maybe I need to imrove my gaps more, it is just heartbreaking to break parts which impacts my pocket and enjoyment....

Go for a Hashtagg freewheel then. One requires the ISIS tool to remove them: Alternative, find a fixed hub with spline body or a crankset like the bonz one: https://www.trial-bikes.com/en/bonz-pro-light-bb24-crankset-p-537672.html I think using the Hashtagg freewheel makes more sense for you, it will be easier to fix compare to the bonz freewheel. If you want, I have a new Tensile freewheel to sell that also use the ISIS tool. It has only 60 POE. I will be happy to sell it to you.

Got to resurrect the thread: My XT rear caliper started leaking after half a year of light pensioner use and room temperature storage. Also has a really loud knock that never got better, so I want something else. Mr. Clarkson@Ali C recently said that the Lewis is silent. What about the Avid, is it silent?

If this refers to gapping: Some say that it's about moving forward and upward, not kicking the drivetrain. I improved my width a lot when I made that change decades ago. Friend of mine (>300 cm, unlike my measly hops) says that he only adjusts the pedal position forward during the jump, to retain a good platform to push against. Squatting on the rear wheel also helped me.

sent you a PM, thanks