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I agree with you that the Magura fittings are particularly sensible to oxydation. I own also some and their are the only one that oxidize that much. But Magura is also not really good in their material choice, see the cheesy carbotecture levers. Some Shimano fittings are gold anodized, see Shimano Saint for example, some other fittings like Hope are stainless steel. I checked on my Magura Louise and the fitting is a mix of material, a part is steel the other one is aluminium (I used a magnet). So I suppose it is galvanic corrosion. The finish of the aluminum part is surely not good.   I disagree regarding the terms. Corrosion does not mean the same as oxydation. As I wrote corrosion implies a degradation of the affected part. Not the case with oxydation, that could even be used to protect the part from degradation. Rust has a specific meaning, it applies only for iron. I am surprise you don't make the difference?   My point was that Swoofty's bike is stored in Hamburg and that makes a huge difference. As I wrote, as soon as there is a little salt in the environment, you shall expect parts to rust/oxidize/corrode. The difference is amazing. I made once the experience myself as I went for a few days in Bordeaux. I was just in the town, far from the ocean (Bordeaux is already some km away from the coast). But the marin air was present and all of my screws (stems, bottom bracket, brakes, etc.) started to rust, while they never did before.   So I wanted to emphasize that Swoofty's bike is exposed to an aggressive environment and as he wanted some tips, I wrote things I know. I guess he really has to consider galvanic corrosion too, since he is using a lot of the aluminium/ti combo. Saline environments also boost galvanic corrosion and failures or seized parts are not uncommon in the bike industry (see the Shimano Dura Ace cranks for example, or a lot of carbon frames with aluminum inserts or even all the seat posts that get stuck). It is nice to see though, that he already considered this.   The only other hint from me regarding the fittings would be to swap them with anodized ones or to get some stainless steel fittings. Trickstuff seems to makes both for example (they are from Goodridge and have a good call).    

Can anyone tell me the proper/original O-ring spec for both 13mm and 14mm pistons and where I can buy these in bulk (well, when I say bulk I mean 20x seals for a 14mm pistons and 20x seals for a 13mm piston)? Also are they all standard across different pistons e.g. does a 13mm trialtech piston use the same seals as a 13mm racing line or clean piston? I know that there are different materials used for various applications, also there seem to be metric and imperial sizes. Generally 14mm pistons use a 10x2 o-ring, meaning that 13mm pistons should use a 9x2 o-ring, however are these rounded dimensions? Seems like different material o-rings come in slightly different dims as well. It’s just all too confusing to me, so I thought maybe someone on here has the intel… Cheers, Nas

Thanks for the tips guys. I use anti seize for dissimilar metals so should be ok-ish there. I think the camphor idea would not play nice with brake pads and rotors. I had an Onza Zoot in this same cellar for 10 years and it survived so I hope I'm just overthinking all this (far more attached to the Guilty than the Zoot, obviously).  It's snowing today so the bike will get wrapped up tonite and I'll fly home tomorrow and see what's left of LA 😞 I'll wave as I fly over the UK.   I'm in Santa Monica. My house is safe.

It was internet trolls he was talking about. Hee haw about observers.

Like your self im looking for local riders as just getting back into it    Not sure if im past it as im of a similar age 🤣